Ready to knit something practical and pretty? This beginner-friendly seed stitch washcloth pattern is a fast and relaxing way to learn a new texture. The seed stitch gives your cloths a soft, nubby feel that’s both exfoliating and absorbent. They’re perfect for scrubbing faces, dishes, or both (just not at the same time, please).
Knit with 100% cotton yarn, these reusable washcloths are eco-friendly, long-lasting, and way better than anything store-bought. Stack a few in cheerful colors, tie them with twine, and you’ve got a thoughtful handmade gift for baby showers, housewarmings, or just because.
Prefer to knit offline? (Download Printable Knitting Pattern)
This pattern is free to read below, but if you’d rather print it or save it for later, I’ve created a clean, ad-free PDF version for you.
How this Seed Stitch Washcloth Free Knitting Pattern is Made
The seed stitch is one of the easiest (and cutest) knitting textures to learn. You create it by simply alternating knit and purl stitches, no fancy tricks required. The result? A bumpy, textured fabric that looks way more impressive than the effort it takes. Just follow the pattern below, and you’ll be stitching up cozy, scrubby goodness in no time.
This Seed Stitch Washcloth is knit flat, turning after each row.
One 95-yard (2 ounce) skein of cotton worsted weight yarn* (shown in Lily Sugar ‘n Cream 100% Cotton Yarn), in your choice of color. – one washcloth uses about 71.25 yards (1.5 oz.)
*Shown in Lily Sugar ‘n Cream 100% Cotton Yarn in “Robins Egg” and “White” (#AffiliateLinks). Weights estimated with Lily Sugar n’ Cream yarn; other yarn weights may vary. Weight does not include gauge swatch. A 4×4 inch gauge swatch with a 2 row by 3 stitch border uses an additional 19 yards (0.4 oz.).
This washcloth will be an 8-inch by 8-inch square.
Care
If you use the materials called for in the pattern, your final product will be machine washable. To keep your seed stitch washcloth looking its best, hand wash or machine wash separately on delicate cycle in cold water. You may tumble dry on low heat.
This pattern is for personal use, gifting, and charitable donation of completed items. You may also sell handmade items created using this pattern. Do not copy this pattern and distribute it. If you’d like to share the pattern, refer your friends to my website, purlsandpixels.com so they may obtain a copy.
If you find any errors or have any questions, email purlsandpixels@gmail.com and I will do my best to help.
I’d love to see your finished work! Tag your photos with @PurlsAndPixels on Twitter or Instagram.
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Patterns often provide a “gauge” and ask you to “check your gauge” before you start. But what does that mean?
Knitting gauge is a way of measuring how big your stitches are. Gauge will change based on the size of your needles, the weight of your yarn, and the tightness by which you knit.
If you use a larger knitting needle, your knitting will have a larger gauge. Similarly, a smaller needle knitting up the same yarn will create a fabric with a smaller gauge.
But even when using the same needles and yarn, stitch size can vary from person to person; it depends on how tightly they each loop the yarn around the knitting needles.
Why Do Patterns Include Gauge Instructions?
Knitting patterns contain gauge instructions to help you ensure you make your finished object the same size as the author’s finished object. If your gauge is bigger (you knit more loosely) than the pattern-writer’s gauge, you will knit an item that is too big. On the other hand, if your gauge is smaller than the pattern-writer’s gauge (you knit more tightly), you will knit an item that is too small.
Usually, gauge is checked by knitting a small practice square, called a “gauge swatch.” After knitting the practice square, you will measure it to see if your knit stitches are the same size as the author’s stitches.
Gauge swatches are most often made in one of two sizes: 1-inch by 1-inch or 4-inches by 4-inches. One-inch gauge swatches are typically used only on projects with very fine yarn and thin needles. The larger 4-inch gauge swatch gives you a more accurate estimate of your average stitch size, especially with heavier-weight yarns. The pattern writer will tell you what size gauge swatch to make in the gauge section of the instructions.
Below you will find both video and written guides to help you learn how to make a gauge swatch and measure it to ensure your knitting will be the correct size. I’ve also included some sample patterns for knitting borderless and bordered gauge swatches.
Video Guide: Knitting Gauge
Written Guide: Knitting Gauge Swatches
Do You Have to Make a Gauge Swatch?
I have been told that you should never, ever skip the gauge check. Well, that seems just a little daunting. So, here is my advice: when size matters, you should not skip a knitting gauge check.
For example, if you are making a blanket or dishcloth and you do not care if it turns out a few inches larger or a few inches smaller than the pattern predicts, go ahead and skip the gauge. Just know you will be gambling with the size of your knit.
On the other hand, you should absolutely check your knitting gauge when the size of your finished knit matters. Especially for wearable knits like hats, gloves, and sweaters, you will want to be sure to check your gauge. If you don’t, you may knit too tightly and end up with an extra small version of what you wanted. Or you could knit too loosely, and your work will be too big.
For the purposes of this guide, you can absolutely skip your gauge check for your first few projects. You may end up with a slightly small or slightly oversized washcloth at first, but this is fine, especially when you are learning.
To successfully make a gauge swatch, you will need to understand the basics of knitting. Once you have studied the cast on, knit stitch, purl stitch, and bind off, you will have the skills to make a gauge swatch. Come back and review this section when you are ready to make your first clothing item; you really should check your gauge for ear warmers, hats, gloves, and mittens.
Understanding Gauge Instructions in Patterns
Most patterns will contain a section phrased something like this:
Gauge: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 4 x 4 inches
These are the instructions for your gauge swatch.
The above gauge instruction example is telling you that a row of 19 stitches should measure 4 inches. A column of 26 stitches should also measure 4 inches. Stated another way, to check your gauge, you need to cast on 19 stitches and knit for 26 rows; the resulting square should measure 4 inches on each side.
If the pattern does not tell you otherwise, assume your gauge swatch should be knit in stockinette stitch (knit one row, purl one row, repeat).
Before you start, be sure you have enough yarn for both your project and your gauge square. You should always make your swatch with the same yarn and knitting needles you will use for the main project. If you do not account for the yarn you will use to make the gauge swatch, you may not have enough yarn left to finish your project.
Making Gauge Swatches
Once you have found the gauge instructions, you will need to knit your swatch. If you are in a hurry, you can make a quick borderless gauge swatch. Or, if you want to make your measurements more accurate, you can add a small border to your swatch; this will keep your swatch from curling and make it easier to measure.
Quick Borderless Gauge Swatch
The simplest way to check gauge is to cast on the number of stitches listed in the gauge pattern. Then, usually in stockinette stitch (knit one row, purl one row, repeat), you will knit the number of rows the gauge pattern calls for.
Example Pattern for a Quick Borderless Gauge Swatch:
The pattern reads, “Gauge: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 4 x 4 inches in stockinette stitch on US No. 7 (4.5 mm) needles.”
Row 1: Cast on 19. Turn. Row 2: Purl 19. Turn. Row 3: Knit 19. Turn. Rows 4 through 25: Repeat Rows 2 and 3. Row 26: Bind off with purl stitches.
Bordered Gauge Swatch for Accuracy
Because stockinette stitch tends to curl at the edges, it can be tricky to measure all the stitches on a borderless stockinette stitch square.
To reduce the curling, you can add a two row and a three 3 stitch border in garter stitch (all knit stitches). Do this by adding six stitches when you cast on. Knit two rows, and begin your stockinette square, adding 3 knit stitches on both ends of your rows. After you have knit all the gauge rows, end with a garter stitch border. If the gauge has an odd number of rows, you can simply add one knitted row and bind off. If the gauge pattern called for an even number of rows, knit those rows, turn, then add the following border: Knit 3, purl the number of stitches called for in the gauge, knit 3, turn. Bind off.
To clarify, let’s look at some example patterns that add a border to common gauge swatches.
Hats, baby blankets, and leg warmers are in a gauge of 18 stitches x 24 rows = 4 x 4 inches in stockinette stitch on US No. 8 (5.0 mm) needles.
Ear warmers, fingerless gloves, and mittens will be made in a gauge of 20 stitches x 28 rows = 4 x 4 inches in stockinette stitch on US No. 5 (3.75 mm) needles.
You can make bordered gauge swatches for each of these with the patterns that follow.
Example Patterns for Quick Bordered Gauge Swatches:
(This example adds a border to the borderless gauge swatch above.)
The pattern reads, “Gauge: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 4 x 4 inches in stockinette stitch on US No. 7 (4.5 mm) needles.”
If your gauge swatch looks a bit too big right off the needles, it may be because it needs to be prepared like you would prepare your finished knitted object. Weave in your ends, wash, and block the gauge square the same way you plan to do in the pattern. This step can be particularly important if you are using cotton, wool, or another shrinkable yarn. Washing and blocking your gauge swatch will show you how your finished object will wash and block. Cotton and wool, for example, shrink quite a bit in the wash.
Measuring Gauge Swatches
Measure Borderless Gauge Swatch
For a borderless gauge swatch, simply measure across and then top-to-bottom.
Measure Bordered Gauge Swatch
For a bordered swatch, make sure to measure the square inside the border you have created. The border should not be included in your measurement.
In our examples, the gauge swatch should measure four inches by four inches (4″ x 4″).
If your swatch matches the pattern’s guide, your gauge is correct. You can start knitting your main project.
Adjusting to Reach the Correct Gauge
If your swatch is too big or too small, you will need to make some adjustments. If the square is too big, select a smaller set of knitting needles and try knitting your swatch again. On the other hand, if your swatch came out too small, choose a larger set of knitting needles and try again. You will need to continue testing needle sizes by making gauge swatches until your square is the correct size.
There are a number of ways to keep your place in a knitting pattern as you work. When following knitting patterns, it is important to pay attention to the details and instructions provided. Here are some tips to help you in following knitting patterns.
Read the pattern carefully:
Start by reading the entire pattern before you begin knitting. Make sure you understand the abbreviations, symbols, and techniques used.
Take note of pattern repeats:
Many knitting patterns have repeated sections. Repeated sections are often noted by asterisks surrounding the instruction. For example: *Knitting Instruction* would mean, “repeat the Knitting Instruction between these asterisks” Pay attention to these repeats and mark them if necessary. It will make it easier to maintain consistency throughout your project.
Check your gauge:
Always check your gauge before starting a project. Gauge refers to the number of stitches and rows per inch. It ensures that your finished project will have the correct size and fit.
Use highlighters, sticky notes, or paperclips: Highlight or mark the specific instructions or sections you are working on. You can make tick marks on some scratch paper as you finish each row.
Or, try following along by aligning a paperclip with your current row in the knitting pattern. This can help you stay focused and prevent any confusion.
Count your stitches and rows:
Use stitch markers or a row counter to keep track of your stitches and rows. This will help you stay organized and ensure accuracy in your knitting.
You can also check your row-count by looking at your work.
Count each knit or purl stitch in a column, beginning at the bottom of the work.
If you started with a long-tail cast-on, don’t count the straight edge stitch.
Do count the loop on your needle.
Remember, practice makes perfect. As you gain experience, you will become more comfortable with interpreting and following knitting patterns.
Now, choose a pattern and start a new project. Happy knitting!
Now that you’ve learned the basics, let’s work on perfecting your skills. In the next lesson, we will learn how to make stitching more even by improving knitting tension.
Much like recipes in baking, knitting patterns try to break down a project into simple steps to help you create a copy of the designer’s creation. Looking at your first knitting pattern can sometimes be overwhelming; there tend to be many sections and a lot of abbreviations. But when you break them down, you will find that almost all knitting patterns are made up of similar parts.
Most patterns structured in the same way. They will usually include:
Almost every knitting pattern will list the materials required to make the item exactly as the author did. You should see knitting needle sizes as well as a yarn suggestion. In most cases, the author has not attempted to make the item with more than one type of yarn. Often, they have only knit it in one color. If you wish to replicate the pattern exactly, you must find the recommended yarn.
Substituting Materials
If you are unable to locate the yarn used by a pattern’s author, you can try substituting yarn. If you try this, you will need to ensure you select yarn in the same weight as the suggested yarn. Because the thickness of yarns in the same weight category can vary slightly, before you substitute, always make sure you work up a gauge swatch to ensure your knit will work out to be the correct size.
Understanding Abbreviations
Knitting patterns are full of abbreviations and learning what they mean makes reading knitting patterns easier. Knitters use a shorthand to keep track of the stitches they make when writing a pattern. Knitting designers usually provide a key at the beginning of the pattern, which explains their abbreviations. Always refer to this key. Some designers do not follow the standardized abbreviations, and others will create their own abbreviations for unique stitches.
If you find a pattern with no key, you can follow the more standard knitting abbreviations. Below are some basic knitting abbreviations that most knitters use; this is also a complete list of the abbreviations used throughout my Learn to Knit Guide. You will want become familiar with these as you start learning to knit.
Knitting Abbreviations Used in My Learn to Knit Guide
sl1pwyif = slip one stitch purlwise with yarn in front
sl1pwyib = slip one stitch purlwise with yarn in back
sl = sl1pwyib = slip one stitch purlwise with yarn in back
sl marker = slip the stitch to which a marker is clipped purlwise with yarn in back [Slip the stitch as if to purl with the working yarn held behind the work.]
ktbl = knit through the back loop
k2tog = knit two together
ssk = slip, slip, knit
M1L = make one left [Pick up the strand between the stitch just worked and the next stitch from front to back with the left needle and knit into the back of it.]
M1R = make one right [Pick up the strand between the stitch just worked and the next stitch from back to front with the left needle and knit into the front of it.]
As your knitting becomes more complex, you will come across abbreviations for increasingly more advanced stitches. Many knitters follow the Crafty Yarn Council’s collection of knitting abbreviations as a standard way of shortening words in knitting patterns. If the pattern you are working does not come with a key, you can look online at the Crafty Yarn Council’s list of standard knitting abbreviations, which can be found at: https://www.craftyarncouncil.com/knit.html.
You’ve done it! Congratulations on your beautiful knit piece. You may notice one last instruction after knitting and tying up the loose ends of your project. Often, at the end of a knitting pattern the final step will read, “block if desired.” Blocking knits is a way of forming your project into a more perfect shape. There are several techniques you can use to block knitwear, including wet, dry, steam, and damp blocking. No matter what method you use, the blocking process will stretch and smooth your stitching.
What is blocking knitwear?
Blocking in knitting is a finishing touch for your knit work. It allows you to stretch and manipulate your knitting into a more consistent, even stitch pattern.
Below, you will see two fingerless mittens I have made. These mittens were made two at a time on the same pair of needles in the same knitting session. The glove on the left has not been blocked. The glove on the right has been blocked. As you can see, the right mitten has a much better shape and the stitching seems much more even.
How to block knits
To block your knitting, you will need to prepare a blocking board. You will lay or pin your knits to the blocking board to ensure they keep their shape. If you do not have a blocking board, you can usually substitute an ironing board or a spare mattress covered in towels.
There are a few techniques you can use when blocking your knits. You will want to consider the type of yarn you have used for your piece when choosing a blocking method. Wool and natural fibers hold their shape better after wet or damp blocking, while acrylics seem to do well with damp and dry blocking. All these blocking methods involve stretching your knitting work a bit, in order to even out the stitching. Then you will lay your item out flat or pin it to a blocking board, while forming it into the correct shape and size.
Wet blocking knits
For wet blocking, you will completely submerge your newly knitted item in water. Let the piece soak until the yarn is fully saturated, then gently wring out any extra drippy water. I shake the item out a bit; this not only gets rid of excess water but also helps the stitches to pull themselves into a more even pattern. Next, lay your item on your mattress or blocking board. Gently pull your work into the desired shape.
Your pattern may ask you to block your knit to a certain measurement. This happens often when you are making patchwork blankets or other knit pieces that should line up perfectly to be sewn together. In this case, stretch the piece to match the given measurements and pin your knit to the board. Pinning it down keeps your piece from shrinking back out of shape while it dries. Once your knit is completely dry, you are ready to continue with your pattern or use you item.
Dry blocking knits
While wet blocking is the most effective way to make sure your knits are in perfect shape, dry blocking sometimes does the trick for items like gloves and hats. Simply tug and pull on your completed work to even out the stitching. When you have focused on your tension while knitting and have a well-shaped knit from the start, a gentle stretch may be all your work needs.
Steam Blocking knits
Another option to block your knits is to use a stream iron to moisten the stitches. First, stretch your knit into shape and pin it to your blocking board. Wave a steam iron a half inch or so above the knitting to moisten the fabric. Then, use your hands to gently smooth the stitching. Allow your knit to fully dry before unpinning. Be very careful if you try this with acrylics; acrylic yarn is made of plastic and too much heat could make it melt. In most cases, it is best to avoid steam blocking acrylics for this reason.
Damp blocking knits with the washing machine
Toss your knits in the washing machine on hand wash or gentle cycle with cold water. Once the wash cycle has finished, the machine will have wrung out just enough water to leave the knits damp, but not wet. This allows for a bit more malleability than just stretching out your dry knits, which helps the stitches to fall into an even pattern. The stitches wont shift around as much as wet blocking, so it doesn’t allow the knit to change its shape as dramatically as a wet blocking would. On the other hand, drying time is cut dramatically when using a washing machine to damp block.
After you make and bind off a piece of knitting, you will almost always have one or more yarn tails to weave into your piece. There are two schools of thought on how to get rid of loose yarn ends on knitting. Knitting purists say you should weave in your ends so there are no knots in your knitting. I say go ahead and knot if a knot will anchor your yarn better. Here I’ll introduce you to how I finish off my knits. I’ll show you how to knot in a loose end, as well as a standard way to weave in your loose ends using a “duplicate stitch” pattern.
This page is just an introduction. For more detailed tutorials (with video guides), check out these pages:
To knot in your loose end, first split the strand of yarn in two; using a tapestry needle makes this easier.
Next, put one of the new strands of yarn on the tapestry needle and sew the yarn under a leg of a knit stitch to anchor it in place. Take the yarn off the tapestry needle.
Pick up an end of the yarn in each hand. Tie a simple knot with the two ends (loop the left strand of yarn over then under the right strand). Let go of the ends of the yarn. The left strand of yarn will now be the right strand, and vice versa, since the knot will cause the pieces to switch places. Pick up the two strands of yarn again.
Tie another simple knot in the exact same manner as the first. Pull tight. If the knot slips when pulled, tie a third knot in the same manner and pull tightly.
Cut the yarn close to the knot.
Weave in Yarn Ends
Instead of tying in your loose end, you can choose to weave in your loose end without knots. This is a good option for rougher yarns like raw wool, since these yarn fibers grab onto each other.
Thread the loose end onto a tapestry needle. Following the pattern of the stitches in your knitting, weave your ends in with the stitches of the fabric. You can follow one row down your work until at least 4 inches of your loose end has been woven into the fabric. Or to make your end more secure, weave it up diagonally through the knitted work.
Learn more about weaving in and tying off your loose ends on flat knits with another knitting lesson you can find here.
Now that you are free of loose yarn ends, your work can be finished and use your knit now. Or, you can learn to “block” your knits to make your stitches look more perfect.
Once you have finished knitting a project, you will want to know how get your work off the needles. You’ll need to “bind off” or “cast off” the piece to secure your last row of stitches in place. There are several ways to end a knitted project. Here I will show you a basic bind off, commonly known as the “standard bind off.” This method can be used on a wide variety of knitted items.
A standard bind off chains together the stitches in your last row so you can remove them from your needles without your work coming undone. To finish your knitted piece, you will work the first two stitches of you last row. Then, you’ll slip the first stitch over the second, which will start removing stitches from the needles and keep them securely in place.
Here, you will learn to bind off in only knit stitches. Later, after you have learned the purl stitch, you can learn to cast of a piece that was made in a pattern of knits and purls.
Before you start, remember to loosen up:
Keep in mind that this bind off tends to be a bit tight, so you may want to loosen up your tension when knitting this last row. Many patterns will specifically tell you to “bind off loosely,” to remind you to adjust the tightness of the stitches.
Or, go up two or three needle sizes:
Instead of adjusting how tightly you knit, you can also switch needle sizes. Try moving to a needle that is two or three sizes larger than the one you have been using for the rest of the pattern. This allows you to keep the same knitting tension in your yarn as you cast off, while still loosening the bind off stitches enough to match the rest of the piece. Some patterns instruct you to switch needle sizes for the last row, to help you ensure your ends are more even.
Video Guide: How to Bind Off Knitting
Written Guide: How to Bind Off Knitting
The steps below assume you have been working in a pattern of only knit stitches (garter stitch). Find a free sample pattern to follow here; it is a face scrubby made of only knit stitches. If you have been knitting in a pattern of knits and purls, make sure to follow your pattern as you bind off.
Bind Off, Step 1:
Following the pattern you have been using for previous rows, knit the first two stitches of your last row.
Bind Off, Step 2:
Insert the left needle tip into the front loop of the first knit stitch on your right needle from front to back.
Bind Off, Step 3:
Lift the first stitch on the right needle up and over the second stitch on the right needle.
Bind Off, Step 4:
Pull the second stitch on the right needle through the first stitch on the right needle.
Bind Off, Step 5:
Slide the left needle out of the stitch on the right needle.
Bind Off, Step 6:
At this point, the first knit stitch should be anchored onto the second and only one loop should remain on your right-hand needle.
Bind Off, Step 7:
Knit the next stitch off your left needle and onto the right needle.
Bind Off, Step 8:
In the same manner as before, lift the first stitch on your right-hand needle over the second stitch, drawing the second stitch through the first, leaving only one stitch on your right-hand needle.
Bind Off, Step 9:
Repeat steps seven and eight until you have reached the last two stitches and freed the left-hand needle from your work.
Bind Off, Step 10:
Lift the first stitch on the right needle over the second, leaving only one stitch on your right-hand needle.
Bind Off, Step 11:
Set your work down, leaving the knitting needle in the last stitch. With very sharp scissors, clip the working yarn about eight or ten inches away from your last stitch. This will free your work from the ball of yarn.
Bind Off, Step 12:
Pull the yarn tail through to anchor it in; do this by enlarging the last stitch with your knitting needle until the tail slides completely through. The loop will become a straight loose end.
If you would rather try a longer pattern, my Free Beginner Scarf Pattern is made entirely of knit stitches, as well. Because it has more stitches in the pattern, it will take longer than a scrubby to finish.
Sometimes, you will notice a stitch in your knitting that looks just a bit strange. As you begin to recognize the shapes of knits and purls, you will learn to “read” your knitting as you work. Once you know what your stitches should look like, you will start to spot mistakes. Twisted, dropped, and slipped stitches are common errors that almost every knitter makes. If you learn to identify them, you can fix knitting mistakes before you bind off your project.
The video lesson below will show you how to spot and fix twisted and dropped stitches. Then, continue reading to see more about spotting and fixing common knitting mistakes.
Video Guide: Common Knitting Mistakes, Fixing Dropped & Twisted Stitches
Written Guide: Common Knitting Mistakes, Dropped & Twisted Stitches
Fixing Knitting Mistakes with a Crochet Hook
Many common knitting mistakes are fixed by intentionally dropping a stitch off your knitting needles. This allows you to correct your mistake, then return the stitch to its place. When correcting a mistake, you will want to be sure to always put the stitch back onto the needles with the right leg in front, if you do not want a twisted stitch.
When you have knit several rows before you notice your mistake, dropping the column of stitches directly above your mistake will allow you reach the problem stitch and fix it. Then, you will re-loop the dropped stitches by climbing up the “ladder” of stitches, anchoring them back in place one at a time. When you reach the top, you can put the last stitch back on the needle and resume your project.
While this can be completed with just your hands, using a crochet hook makes straightening the column of stitches an easier task. Choose a crochet hook that is the same size or just a bit smaller than your knitting needles. Crochet hooks and knitting needles are both labeled with millimeter measurements, so you can easily compare sizes. Here, I am working US No. 7 (4.5 mm) knitting needles and a G (4.0 mm) crochet hook.
Examining Correct Knit Stitches
Before you can spot mistakes, you need to know what a proper knit stitch and purl stitch should look like. So, let’s first look more closely at what knit stitches typically look like, without mistakes.
The “knit-side” of a stockinette stitch pattern should be flat and should be completely made up of the V-shaped stitches.
If you examine a correct (untwisted) knit “V” closely, you will notice the point at the bottom of the “V” should stretch apart, like so: “ /”. Each half of the “V” is referred to as a “leg.”
Identify Twisted Stitches
Unlike a regular knit stitch, a twisted knit stitch will have its legs crossed.
Fixing Twisted Stitches
Fix a Twisted Stitch, Step 1:
You can find the complete step-by-step tutorial to fix twisted stitches on its own page. Go to full tutorial.
Identify Dropped Stitches
A dropped stitch is simply one that has fallen off the needles at some point in your work.
Fixing Dropped Stitches
Fix a Dropped Stitch, Step 1:
You can find the complete step-by-step tutorial to fix dropped stitches on its own page. Go to full tutorial.
Identify Slipped Stitches
A slipped stitch is an unworked stitch. This will cause one stitch to look much bigger than the others.
There will also be a loose loop on the purlside where you have slipped a stitch.
Fixing Slipped Stitches
Fix a Slipped Stitch, Step 1:
You can find the complete step-by-step tutorial to fix slipped stitches on its own page. Go to full tutorial.
“Tink” – Knit Backward to Fix Mistakes
Tink, Step 1:
You can find the complete step-by-step tutorial to knit backward to fix mistakes on its own page. Go to full tutorial.
After you have learned to fix knitting mistakes, you may want to know how to unravel a few rows to correct a problem. Or undo an entire knitting project to reuse the yarn. Either way, knitters call this “frogging,” and I will show you how in the next tutorial.
