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Patterns often provide a “gauge” and ask you to “check your gauge” before you start. But what does that mean?

Knitting gauge is a way of measuring how big your stitches are. Gauge will change based on the size of your needles, the weight of your yarn, and the tightness by which you knit.

If you use a larger knitting needle, your knitting will have a larger gauge. Similarly, a smaller needle knitting up the same yarn will create a fabric with a smaller gauge.

But even when using the same needles and yarn, stitch size can vary from person to person; it depends on how tightly they each loop the yarn around the knitting needles.

Why Do Patterns Include Gauge Instructions?

Knitting patterns contain gauge instructions to help you ensure you make your finished object the same size as the author’s finished object. If your gauge is bigger (you knit more loosely) than the pattern-writer’s gauge, you will knit an item that is too big. On the other hand, if your gauge is smaller than the pattern-writer’s gauge (you knit more tightly), you will knit an item that is too small.

Usually, gauge is checked by knitting a small practice square, called a “gauge swatch.” After knitting the practice square, you will measure it to see if your knit stitches are the same size as the author’s stitches.

Gauge swatches are most often made in one of two sizes: 1-inch by 1-inch or 4-inches by 4-inches. One-inch gauge swatches are typically used only on projects with very fine yarn and thin needles. The larger 4-inch gauge swatch gives you a more accurate estimate of your average stitch size, especially with heavier-weight yarns. The pattern writer will tell you what size gauge swatch to make in the gauge section of the instructions.

Below you will find both video and written guides to help you learn how to make a gauge swatch and measure it to ensure your knitting will be the correct size. I’ve also included some sample patterns for knitting borderless and bordered gauge swatches.

Video Guide: Knitting Gauge

Written Guide: Knitting Gauge Swatches

Do You Have to Make a Gauge Swatch?

I have been told that you should never, ever skip the gauge check. Well, that seems just a little daunting. So, here is my advice: when size matters, you should not skip a knitting gauge check.

For example, if you are making a blanket or dishcloth and you do not care if it turns out a few inches larger or a few inches smaller than the pattern predicts, go ahead and skip the gauge. Just know you will be gambling with the size of your knit.

On the other hand, you should absolutely check your knitting gauge when the size of your finished knit matters. Especially for wearable knits like hats, gloves, and sweaters, you will want to be sure to check your gauge. If you don’t, you may knit too tightly and end up with an extra small version of what you wanted. Or you could knit too loosely, and your work will be too big.

For the purposes of this guide, you can absolutely skip your gauge check for your first few projects. You may end up with a slightly small or slightly oversized washcloth at first, but this is fine, especially when you are learning.

To successfully make a gauge swatch, you will need to understand the basics of knitting. Once you have studied the cast on, knit stitch, purl stitch, and bind off, you will have the skills to make a gauge swatch. Come back and review this section when you are ready to make your first clothing item; you really should check your gauge for ear warmers, hats, gloves, and mittens.

Understanding Gauge Instructions in Patterns

Most patterns will contain a section phrased something like this:

            Gauge:   19 stitches x 26 rows = 4 x 4 inches

These are the instructions for your gauge swatch.

The above gauge instruction example is telling you that a row of 19 stitches should measure 4 inches. A column of 26 stitches should also measure 4 inches. Stated another way, to check your gauge, you need to cast on 19 stitches and knit for 26 rows; the resulting square should measure 4 inches on each side.

If the pattern does not tell you otherwise, assume your gauge swatch should be knit in stockinette stitch (knit one row, purl one row, repeat).

Before you start, be sure you have enough yarn for both your project and your gauge square. You should always make your swatch with the same yarn and knitting needles you will use for the main project. If you do not account for the yarn you will use to make the gauge swatch, you may not have enough yarn left to finish your project.

Making Gauge Swatches

Once you have found the gauge instructions, you will need to knit your swatch. If you are in a hurry, you can make a quick borderless gauge swatch. Or, if you want to make your measurements more accurate, you can add a small border to your swatch; this will keep your swatch from curling and make it easier to measure.

Quick Borderless Gauge Swatch

The simplest way to check gauge is to cast on the number of stitches listed in the gauge pattern. Then, usually in stockinette stitch (knit one row, purl one row, repeat), you will knit the number of rows the gauge pattern calls for.

Example Pattern for a Quick Borderless Gauge Swatch:

Bordered Gauge Swatch for Accuracy

Because stockinette stitch tends to curl at the edges, it can be tricky to measure all the stitches on a borderless stockinette stitch square.

To clarify, let’s look at some example patterns that add a border to common gauge swatches.

The patterns in my Learn to Knit guide are in one of three gauges.

• Cotton washcloths and face scrubbies are in a gauge of 19 stitches x 26 rows = 4 x 4 inches in stockinette stitch on US No. 7 (4.5 mm) needles.
• Hats, baby blankets, and leg warmers are in a gauge of 18 stitches x 24 rows = 4 x 4 inches in stockinette stitch on US No. 8 (5.0 mm) needles.
• Ear warmers, fingerless gloves, and mittens will be made in a gauge of 20 stitches x 28 rows = 4 x 4 inches in stockinette stitch on US No. 5 (3.75 mm) needles.

You can make bordered gauge swatches for each of these with the patterns that follow.

Example Patterns for Quick Bordered Gauge Swatches:

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Finishing Gauge Swatches

If your gauge swatch looks a bit too big right off the needles, it may be because it needs to be prepared like you would prepare your finished knitted object. Weave in your ends, wash, and block the gauge square the same way you plan to do in the pattern. This step can be particularly important if you are using cotton, wool, or another shrinkable yarn. Washing and blocking your gauge swatch will show you how your finished object will wash and block. Cotton and wool, for example, shrink quite a bit in the wash.

Measuring Gauge Swatches

Measure Borderless Gauge Swatch

For a borderless gauge swatch, simply measure across and then top-to-bottom.

Measure Bordered Gauge Swatch

For a bordered swatch, make sure to measure the square inside the border you have created. The border should not be included in your measurement.

In our examples, the gauge swatch should measure four inches by four inches (4″ x 4″).

If your swatch matches the pattern’s guide, your gauge is correct. You can start knitting your main project.

Adjusting to Reach the Correct Gauge

If your swatch is too big or too small, you will need to make some adjustments. If the square is too big, select a smaller set of knitting needles and try knitting your swatch again. On the other hand, if your swatch came out too small, choose a larger set of knitting needles and try again. You will need to continue testing needle sizes by making gauge swatches until your square is the correct size.

To conserve your yarn, you may want to frog (unravel) your swatch and re-knit it with the same yarn. If you don’t know how to frog, you can learn to unravel your knitting here.

Practice With My Knitting Patterns

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There are a  number of ways to keep your place in a knitting pattern as you work. When following knitting patterns, it is important to pay attention to the details and instructions provided. Here are some tips to help you in following knitting patterns.

Read the pattern carefully:

Start by reading the entire pattern before you begin knitting. Make sure you understand the abbreviations, symbols, and techniques used.

Take note of pattern repeats:

Many knitting patterns have repeated sections. Repeated sections are often noted by asterisks surrounding the instruction. For example: *Knitting Instruction* would mean, “repeat the Knitting Instruction between these asterisks” Pay attention to these repeats and mark them if necessary. It will make it easier to maintain consistency throughout your project.

Use highlighters, sticky notes, or paperclips: Highlight or mark the specific instructions or sections you are working on. You can make tick marks on some scratch paper as you finish each row.

Count your stitches and rows:

Use stitch markers or a row counter to keep track of your stitches and rows. This will help you stay organized and ensure accuracy in your knitting.

Remember, practice makes perfect. As you gain experience, you will become more comfortable with interpreting and following knitting patterns.

Now, choose a pattern and start a new project. Happy knitting!

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Much like recipes in baking, knitting patterns try to break down a project into simple steps to help you create a copy of the designer’s creation. Looking at your first knitting pattern can sometimes be overwhelming; there tend to be many sections and a lot of abbreviations. But when you break them down, you will find that almost all knitting patterns are made up of similar parts.

Most patterns structured in the same way. They will usually include:

• An introduction.
• A materials list.
• The gauge of the pattern.
• An abbreviations key.
• Instructions for knitting.

Materials

Almost every knitting pattern will list the materials required to make the item exactly as the author did. You should see knitting needle sizes as well as a yarn suggestion. In most cases, the author has not attempted to make the item with more than one type of yarn. Often, they have only knit it in one color. If you wish to replicate the pattern exactly, you must find the recommended yarn.

Substituting Materials

If you are unable to locate the yarn used by a pattern’s author, you can try substituting yarn. If you try this, you will need to ensure you select yarn in the same weight as the suggested yarn. Because the thickness of yarns in the same weight category can vary slightly, before you substitute, always make sure you work up a gauge swatch to ensure your knit will work out to be the correct size.

What is Gauge?

Your pattern will likely have a section that reads something like: “Gauge:   19 stitches x 26 rows = 4 x 4 inches in stockinette stitch on No. 7 (4.5 mm) needles.” This tells you how large each stitch needs to be for your final knitting project to be the correct size. Check your gauge when you need your knitted item to fit properly or match a specific dimension. Learn how to check your gauge in this free knitting guide.

Understanding Abbreviations

Knitting patterns are full of abbreviations and learning what they mean makes reading knitting patterns easier. Knitters use a shorthand to keep track of the stitches they make when writing a pattern. Knitting designers usually provide a key at the beginning of the pattern, which explains their abbreviations. Always refer to this key. Some designers do not follow the standardized abbreviations, and others will create their own abbreviations for unique stitches.

If you find a pattern with no key, you can follow the more standard knitting abbreviations. Below are some basic knitting abbreviations that most knitters use; this is also a complete list of the abbreviations used throughout my Learn to Knit Guide. You will want become familiar with these as you start learning to knit.

Knitting Abbreviations Used in My Learn to Knit Guide

CO = cast on

k = knit

p = purl

** = repeat the pattern between the asterisks

sl1pwyif = slip one stitch purlwise with yarn in front

sl1pwyib = slip one stitch purlwise with yarn in back

sl = sl1pwyib = slip one stitch purlwise with yarn in back

sl marker = slip the stitch to which a marker is clipped purlwise with yarn in back [Slip the stitch as if to purl with the working yarn held behind the work.]

ktbl = knit through the back loop

k2tog = knit two together

ssk = slip, slip, knit

M1L = make one left [Pick up the strand between the stitch just worked and the next stitch from front to back with the left needle and knit into the back of it.]

M1R = make one right [Pick up the strand between the stitch just worked and the next stitch from back to front with the left needle and knit into the front of it.]

BO = bind off

Learn More Abbreviations

Want to explore more abbreviations with a side of silly fun? Read my Knitting Abbreviations Explained Series here.

As your knitting becomes more complex, you will come across abbreviations for increasingly more advanced stitches. Many knitters follow the Crafty Yarn Council’s collection of knitting abbreviations as a standard way of shortening words in knitting patterns. If the pattern you are working does not come with a key, you can look online at the Crafty Yarn Council’s list of standard knitting abbreviations, which can be found at:  https://www.craftyarncouncil.com/knit.html.

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You’ve done it! Congratulations on your beautiful knit piece. You may notice one last instruction after knitting and tying up the loose ends of your project. Often, at the end of a knitting pattern the final step will read, “block if desired.” Blocking knits is a way of forming your project into a more perfect shape. There are several techniques you can use to block knitwear, including wet, dry, steam, and damp blocking. No matter what method you use, the blocking process will stretch and smooth your stitching.

What is blocking knitwear?

Blocking in knitting is a finishing touch for your knit work. It allows you to stretch and manipulate your knitting into a more consistent, even stitch pattern.

Below, you will see two fingerless mittens I have made. These mittens were made two at a time on the same pair of needles in the same knitting session. The glove on the left has not been blocked. The glove on the right has been blocked. As you can see, the right mitten has a much better shape and the stitching seems much more even.

How to block knits

To block your knitting, you will need to prepare a blocking board. You will lay or pin your knits to the blocking board to ensure they keep their shape. If you do not have a blocking board, you can usually substitute an ironing board or a spare mattress covered in towels.

You can order a blocking board on Amazon.com with this affiliate link.

There are a few techniques you can use when blocking your knits. You will want to consider the type of yarn you have used for your piece when choosing a blocking method. Wool and natural fibers hold their shape better after wet or damp blocking, while acrylics seem to do well with damp and dry blocking. All these blocking methods involve stretching your knitting work a bit, in order to even out the stitching. Then you will lay your item out flat or pin it to a blocking board, while forming it into the correct shape and size.  

Wet blocking knits

Dry blocking knits

Steam Blocking knits

Damp blocking knits with the washing machine

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Knit These Projects

Washcloth and Face Scrubby Knitting Pattern

Fingerless Glove Knitting Pattern

 

Find More Knitting Patterns

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Once you have finished knitting a project, you will want to know how get your work off the needles. You’ll need to “bind off” or “cast off” the piece to secure your last row of stitches in place. There are several ways to end a knitted project. Here I will show you a basic bind off, commonly known as the “standard bind off.” This method can be used on a wide variety of knitted items.

A standard bind off chains together the stitches in your last row so you can remove them from your needles without your work coming undone. To finish your knitted piece, you will work the first two stitches of you last row. Then, you’ll slip the first stitch over the second, which will start removing stitches from the needles and keep them securely in place.

Here, you will learn to bind off in only knit stitches. Later, after you have learned the purl stitch, you can learn to cast of a piece that was made in a pattern of knits and purls.

Before you start, remember to loosen up:

Keep in mind that this bind off tends to be a bit tight, so you may want to loosen up your tension when knitting this last row. Many patterns will specifically tell you to “bind off loosely,” to remind you to adjust the tightness of the stitches.

Or, go up two or three needle sizes:

Instead of adjusting how tightly you knit, you can also switch needle sizes. Try moving to a needle that is two or three sizes larger than the one you have been using for the rest of the pattern. This allows you to keep the same knitting tension in your yarn as you cast off, while still loosening the bind off stitches enough to match the rest of the piece. Some patterns instruct you to switch needle sizes for the last row, to help you ensure your ends are more even.

Video Guide: How to Bind Off Knitting

Written Guide: How to Bind Off Knitting

The steps below assume you have been working in a pattern of only knit stitches (garter stitch). Find a free sample pattern to follow here; it is a face scrubby made of only knit stitches. If you have been knitting in a pattern of knits and purls, make sure to follow your pattern as you bind off.

Practice With My Knitting Patterns

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