How to Remove Labels from Beechnut Baby Food Jars with No Chemicals

How to take off Beechnut baby food jar labels, guide by Liz @PurlsAndPixels

Beechnut Baby Food Jars

The new baby food jars from Beechnut are my absolute favorite. The canning jars Beechnut chose are a unique pear shape that flares at the bottom. They were so adorable I could not resist collecting them and saving them up for some kind of craft project that I’d get to “one of these days.”

When I finally got around to making this baby food jar stash into a craft project, I ran into a problem. The clear plastic labels do peel off easily. Unfortunately, the glue used to adhere the label to the jar leaves behind a terrible sticky residue. I could not get the sticky residue off the baby food jars just by tossing the jars in the dishwasher, as I had hoped. And to just leave the glue on the jars on was not a good solution; it is incredibly sticky, so it collects dirt and hair like an icky magnet. Icky, sticky containers aren’t pretty or useful, so I was determined to find a way to be rid of the glue on all my little jars.

Solution: How to Remove Labels from Beechnut Baby Food Jars

I tried all sorts of ways to figure out how to remove labels from Beechnut baby food jars. And, after a few experiments, I think I have found the best solution! It is easy, normally around the house and chemical free. What is this miracle solution? Plain old vegetable oil.

It does still take a bit of elbow grease to get the gooey label residue off, but here’s what I did. And there are no harsh chemicals involved, so I didn’t have to worry about doing my project around the kiddo.

I grabbed an old toothbrush, and a bottle of vegetable oil and got to scrubbing. Dip the toothbrush in the oil, scrub the residue loose, wipe with a paper towel or dry cloth, and voila, no more residue!

Run the oily jars thru the dishwasher to get rid of the remaining vegetable oil, and you are ready to craft.

What to Make with Beechnut Baby Food Jars

I needed a new storage system for my beads, since I make jewelry. I re-purposed the baby food jars to store my gems and stones. To make them a little prettier, I got a bottle of teal spray paint (Rustoleum). A couple thin coats made the lids fresh and new, and I think this baby food jar craft project looks adorable siting on my shelf.

You could make lots of cute things from the uniquely shaped Beechnut jars, just be creative and use them to fill a need you have.

RE-PURPOSING Jars, Some ideas to try:

small item storage (like beads!)
office supply holders (for pens, paperclips, tacks, etc.)
pin cushions
candles

Check out and follow my Pinterest board, up-cycling baby food jars.

Enjoy and happy crafting!

August 8, 2015September 6, 2024

Yard Sale Signs

So, I held my very first yard sale today! Well, actually it was a garage sale, since it was inside the garage. Whatever you call it, selling your stuff can sometimes be necessary. Whether you’re trying to clean out old clutter from around the house or working to get a little extra cash, a yard sale or garage sale is a great way to go.

For my yard sale, I had quite a lot of adult and baby clothing. Rather than tagging each outfit individually (since we had a lot), I made up some signs to help with the sale. I put all the baby clothes in bins by size and put the corresponding sign on the bin. For the adult clothes, I made a generic sign, which says all clothes are $2 unless otherwise marked. We also had a credit card reader so that I could take payments through Amazon, so I made up a couple of signs saying so as well. I’m sharing a free downloadable copy of my yard sale signs so that you can print your own signs for your garage sale. These are in Word format so you can edit the details yourself.

Click the links below do download the word documents. Good luck with your yard sale!

Baby boy clothes yard sale signs

Adult clothes yard sale signs

Yard sale signs: We can process credit cards

P.S. If these look funny in Microsoft Word, click “enable editing” when asked. This should put the words back on the pictures. 🙂

More Home DIY Projects

July 3, 2015February 27, 2021

How to Knit the Purl Stitch

Learn to make the purl stitch, a knitting lesson from Liz @PurlsAndPixels.

Now that you understand the knit stitch, you are ready to move on to your next knitting challenge: learning to make the purl stitch.

A purl stitch is essentially a backwards knit stitch. You will hold your yarn in front of your needles to create a “U” shaped stitch, which looks like a bump. If you make a knit stitch, turn it over: the back side of a knit stitch looks exactly like the front side of a purl stitch.

If you purl every stitch in every row of a flat knitted piece, you end up with a garter stitch pattern, just as you do when knitting with only the knit stitch.

Combining knits and purls can create all sorts of fun patterns and textures.

Two important things to remember when making the purl stitch:

Hold the working yarn in front of your needles, and
Insert your right needle into each stitch from back to front.

Below are both video and written tutorials to help you learn how to make a purl.

Video Guide: How to Make the Purl Stitch

Written Guide: How to Make the Purl Stitch

Step 1: Learn to make the purl stitch, with a knitting lesson from Liz @PurlsAndPixels.

Purl, Step 1:

Hold your yarn and needles as if to knit, except place the working yarn in front of your left needle.

Step 2: Learn to make the purl stitch, with a knitting lesson from Liz @PurlsAndPixels.

Purl, Step 2:

Insert your right-hand needle tip into the front loop of the next stitch on your left needle from back to front.

Step 3: Learn to make the purl stitch, with a knitting lesson from Liz @PurlsAndPixels.

Purl, Step 3:

With your left pointer finger, bring the working yarn down, towards you, over then behind the right needle tip. This will form a loop on the right-hand needle tip.

Purl, Step 4:

Pull the new loop of yarn on the right-hand needle through the first stitch on your left needle.

Purl, Step 5:

Slide the stitch you just worked into off the left needle, allowing the new stitch to remain on your right needle.

Purl, Step 6:

You have made your first purl stitch!

Repeat steps one through five each time a pattern asks you to purl a stitch.

Practice With My Knitting Patterns

Free Beginner Face Scrubby knitting pattern by Liz @PurlsAndPixels.

If you purl an entire piece of knitting work, you end up with a garter stitch pattern, just as you do when knitting with only the knit stitch. Because of this, one way to learn and practice the purl stitch is to make a Face Scrubby with only purls. You can follow the free Beginner Face Scrubby Pattern, except replace all the knit stitches with purl stitches.

Basic Washcloth and Face Scrubby knitting pattern by Liz @PurlsAndPixels

When you are ready to start a new project, you can to learn to purl with the Basic Face Scrubby or Washcloth pattern found in my Simple Washcloth Knitting Pattern Collection. You will combine knits and purls in to create the traditional, smooth Stockinette stitch pattern that is commonly used in knitwear.

Up Next

To help you “read” your knitting and make sure you are following patterns correctly, you can start to see the knit stitches as “V” shaped and the purl stitches as upside down “U” shapes. Learn to identify knits and purls next.

Go Back to the Learn to Knit Index

February 12, 2015September 2, 2024

Frozen Snowflake Mittens

Frozen Snowflake Mittens: A Free Knitting Pattern by Liz Chandler

Are your hands a little chilly? Keep them warm with these mittens, embroidered with a subtle frozen snowflake. Get ready to embark on a new knitting adventure! Here is my free DIY pattern to knit these Frozen Snowflake Mittens yourself. Dive into the cozy world of crafting with step-by-step instructions to create three sizes of Frozen Snowflake Mittens: Women’s size, Girls’ Size, and Toddlers’ Size. Elevate your winter style with these charming mittens fit for royalty.

Anna's Anna's Snowflake Mittens Frozen Gloves

Crafted with care and warmth, these Frozen Snowflake Mittens are made using my favorite super-soft acrylic yarn – Caron Simply Soft. The choice of this yarn is intentional; it’s not only incredibly soft but also remarkably warm. Take them outside and build a snowman! What’s more, the practicality extends to easy maintenance – just toss these mittens into the washing machine when they need a refresh.

Designed with a touch of royal elegance, these mittens are perfect for princesses of all ages. The enchanting blue hue adds a regal charm, and to cater to diverse preferences, I’ve created these mittens in women’s, children’s, and toddlers’ sizes. Whether you’re gifting a pair to a little one or treating yourself to a new accessory, these mittens are a delightful addition to any winter wardrobe.

About This Free Frozen Snowflake Mittens Pattern

This simple ribbed hat is an easy-level knitting pattern. You will need to know how to make a long-tail cast on, knit, purl, decrease, and draw yarn thru the remaining stitches. If you are not familiar with these skills, find quick, free lessons in my Learn to Knit Guide.

Anna's blue snowflake mittens in the Disney move Frozen.

Materials

You will need the following materials, which you can purchase at your local yarn shop or on Amazon.com via the affiliate links below:

Knitting Needles:
Double Point Needles (DPNs)

No. 13/5.00MM double pointed needles (dpn) (or four sizes larger than size needed to obtain gauge)
No. 9/5.00MM double pointed needles (dpn) (or size needed to obtain gauge)

Yarn:

One 315-Yard Skein of Caron Simply Soft Yarn, Cobalt Blue (worsted weight) (Note: You may want to purchase two skeins of this color; you will knit with two strands held together. Having two separate skeins lets you avoid winding a second ball of yarn.)
One 315-Yard Skein of Caron Simply Soft Yarn, Royal Blue (worsted weight) – This color is for the snowflake embroidery, and you will use only 1-2 yards from this skein for each pair of gloves

*Weights estimated with Caron Simply Soft yarn; other yarn weights may vary. Weight does not include gauge swatch. A 4×4 inch gauge swatch with a 2 row by 3 stitch border uses an additional 21 yards (0.4 oz.).

Tools:

A stitch marker, a measuring tape and a darning needle.

Gauge

20 stitches x 28 rows = 4 x 4 inches in stockinette stitch on No. 5 (3.75 mm) needles. (Learn how to check your gauge here.)

Abbreviations

k = knit

Make 1 = with the left needle, pick up the strand between the stitch just worked and the next stitch from front to back and knit into the back of it.

k2tog = Knit two together.

ssk = Slip, slip, knit. Slip two stitches as if to knit. Insert left needle from left to right into the fronts of the two slipped stitches and knit together.

sl1pwyif = Slip one stitch purlwise, holding yarn in front of work.

Instructions: Frozen Snowflake Mittens

Instructions: Adult Women’s Size Frozen Snowflake Mittens

(Approx. 10.5 inches from top to bottom, 8 inches around hand, without thumb)
Use the Long-Tail Cast On method. Knit with 2 strands of yarn held together. Use stitch marker to keep track of the beginning/ends of your circular rows by placing it in the first stitch of each circular row (round). Remember: You will turn these gloves wrong-side-out (purl-side-out) when you are finished. Make two (2).
Row 1: With No. 13 DPNs, cast on 15 stitches. Divide evenly onto 3 No. 13 DPNs (5 stitches each).
Row 2: Join (taking care not to twist stitches) and knit 15 stitches.
Rows 3 thru 14: Knit 15 stitches.
Row 15: Switching to No.9 DPNs as you go, k1, make 1 repeat for one round. (30 stitches)
Rows 16 thru 21: Knit 30 stitches.
Row 22: Knit 14 stitches. Place stitch marker on the 14th knit stich. Make 1. Knit 2 stitches. Make 1. Place stitch marker on the newly made stitch. Knit 14 stitches. (32 stitches)
Row 23: Knit 32.
Row 24: Knit to marker. Slip marker purlwise with yarn in front. Make 1. Knit to second marker. Make 1. Slip second marker purlwise with yarn in front. Knit to end. (34 stitches)
Row 25: Knit 34 stitches.
Row 26: Knit to marker. Slip marker purlwise with yarn in front. Make 1. Knit to second marker. Make 1. Slip second marker purlwise with yarn in front. Knit to end. (36 stitches)
Row 27: Knit 36 stitches.
Row 28: Knit to marker. Slip marker purlwise with yarn in front. Make 1. Knit to second marker. Make 1. Slip second marker purlwise with yarn in front. Knit to end. (38 stitches)
Row 29: Knit 38 stitches.
Row 30: Knit to marker. Slip marker purlwise with yarn in front. Make 1. Knit to second marker. Make 1. Slip second marker purlwise with yarn in front. Knit to end. (40 stitches)
Row 31: Knit 40 stitches.
Row 32: Knit 14 stitches. Slip next 12 stitches, purlwise with yarn in front, onto stitch holder. Knit 14 stitches. (This will separate thumb stiches from hand stitches.)
Rows 33 thru 54: Knit 28 stitches.
Row 55: K2tog. Knit 10 stitches. SSK. K2tog. Knit 10 stitches. SSK. (24 stitches)
Row 56: Knit 24 stitches.
Row 57: K2tog. Knit 8 stitches. SSK. K2tog. Knit 8 stitches. SSK. (20 stitches)
Row 58: Knit 20 stitches.
Row 59: K2tog. Knit 6 stitches. SSK. K2tog. Knit 6 stitches. SSK. (16 stitches)
Cut yarn leaving a 12 inch tail. With tapestry needle, draw yarn tightly through remaining 16 stitches. Weave in end. You may wish to reinforce the “seam” created by the decreases at the fingertips; use duplicate stitch to tighten the seam as you weave in your tail. Keep in mind your “purl-side” or “wrong-side” will be the visible outside of your glove, so keep that side neat.

Thumb

Put 12 stitches from stitch holder onto three No. 9 DPNs (4 stitches per needle).
Thumb Row 1: Knit 12 stitches in the round.
Thumb Row 2: Join round (taking care not to twist stitches) and knit 12 stitches.
Thumb Rows 3 thru 10: Knit 12.
Thumb Row 11: K2tog x 6 (6 stitches).
Cut a 12 inch tail and draw tightly through remaining 6 stitches.
Use duplicate stitch to tighten any loose stitches around the “seams” as you weave in your tails. Keep in mind your “purl-side” or “wrong-side” will be the visible outside of your glove, so keep that side neat.
Turn mittens purl-side (wrong-side) out – this is now the “right-side” of your work. Embroider adult snowflake design.

Instructions: Child Size Frozen Snowflake Mittens

(Approx. 9 inches from top to bottom, 7 inches around hand without thumb)
Use the Long-Tail Cast On method. Knit with 2 strands of yarn held together. Use stitch marker to keep track of the beginning/ends of your circular rows by placing it in the first stitch of each circular row (round). Remember: You will turn these gloves wrong-side-out (purl-side-out) when you are finished. Make two (2).
Row 1: With No. 13 DPNs, cast on 14 stitches. Divide onto 3 No. 13 DPNs.
Row 2: Join (taking care not to twist stitches) and knit 14 stitches.
Rows 3 thru 12: Knit 14 stitches.
Row 15: Switching to No.9 DPNs as you go, k1, make 1 repeat for one round. (28 stitches)
Rows 16 thru 21: Knit 28 stitches.
Row 22: Knit 13 stitches. Place stitch marker on the 13th knit stich. Make 1. Knit 2 stitches. Make 1. Place stitch marker on the newly made stitch. Knit 13 stitches. (30 stitches)
Row 23: Knit 30.
Row 24: Knit to marker. Slip marker purlwise with yarn in front. Make 1. Knit to second marker. Make 1. Slip second marker purlwise with yarn in front. Knit to end. (32 stitches)
Row 25: Knit 32 stitches.
Row 26: Knit to marker. Slip marker purlwise with yarn in front. Make 1. Knit to second marker. Make 1. Slip second marker purlwise with yarn in front. Knit to end. (34 stitches)
Row 27: Knit 34 stitches.
Row 28: Knit 13 stitches. Slip next 8 stitches, purlwise with yarn in back, onto stitch holder. Knit 13 stitches. (This will separate thumb stiches from hand stitches.)
Rows 29 thru 44: Knit 26 stitches.
Row 45: K2tog. Knit 9 stitches. SSK. K2tog. Knit 9 stitches. SSK. (22 stitches)
Row 46: Knit 22 stitches.
Row 55: K2tog. Knit 7 stitches. SSK. K2tog. Knit 7 stitches. SSK. (18 stitches)
Row 56: Knit 18 stitches.
Row 57: K2tog. Knit 5 stitches. SSK. K2tog. Knit 5 stitches. SSK. (14 stitches)
Row 58: Knit 16 stitches.
Row 59: K2tog. Knit 3 stitches. SSK. K2tog. Knit 3 stitches. SSK. (10 stitches)
Cut yarn leaving a 12 inch tail. With tapestry needle, draw yarn tightly through remaining 10 stitches. Weave in end. You may wish to reinforce the “seam” created by the decreases at the fingertips; use duplicate stitch to tighten the seam as you weave in your tail. Keep in mind your “purl-side” or “wrong-side” will be the visible outside of your glove, so keep that side neat.

Thumb

Put 8 stitches from stitch holder onto two No. 9 DPNs (4 stitches per needle).
Thumb Row 1: Beginning with the first picked up stitch, knit 8 stitches in the round.
Thumb Row 2: Join (taking care not to twist stitches) and knit 8 stitches.
Thumb Rows 3 thru 11: Knit 8 stitches.
Thumb Row 12: K2tog x 4 (4 stitches).
Cut a 12 inch tail and draw tightly through remaining 4 stitches.
Use duplicate stitch to tighten any loose stitches around the “seams” as you weave in your tails. Keep in mind your “purl-side” or “wrong-side” will be the visible outside of your glove, so keep that side neat.
Turn mittens purl-side (wrong-side) out – this is now the “right-side” of your work. Embroider children’s snowflake design.

Instructions: Toddler Size Frozen Snowflake Mittens

(Approx. 6.5 inches from top to bottom, 6 in. around hand without thumb)
Use the Long-Tail Cast On method. Knit with 2 strands of yarn held together. Use stitch marker to keep track of the beginning/ends of your circular rows by placing it in the first stitch of each circular row (round). Remember: You will turn these gloves wrong-side-out (purl-side-out) when you are finished. Make two (2).
Row 1: With No. 13 DPNs, cast on 12 stitches. Divide onto 3 No. 13 DPNs.
Row 2: Join (taking care not to twist stitches) and knit 12 stitches.
Rows 3 thru 10: Knit 12 stitches.
Row 11: Switching to No.9 DPNs as you go, k1, make 1 repeat for one round. (24 stitches)
Rows 12 thru 16: Knit 24 stitches.
Row 17: Knit 11 stitches. Place stitch marker on the 11th knit stich. Make 1. Knit 2 stitches. Make 1. Place stitch marker on the newly made stitch. Knit 11 stitches. (26 stitches)
Row 18: Knit 26.
Row 19: Knit to marker. Slip marker purlwise with yarn in front. Make 1. Knit to second marker. Make 1. Slip second marker purlwise with yarn in front. Knit to end. (28 stitches)
Row 20: Knit 28 stitches.
Row 21: Knit 11 stitches. Slip next 6 stitches, purlwise with yarn in back, onto stitch holder. Knit 11 stitches. (This will separate thumb stiches from hand stitches)
Rows 22 thru 34: Knit 22 stitches.
Row 35: K2tog. Knit 7 stitches. SSK. K2tog. Knit 7 stitches. SSK. (18 stitches)
Row 36: Knit 18 stitches.
Row 37: K2tog. Knit 5 stitches. SSK. K2tog. Knit 5 stitches. SSK. (14 stitches)
Row 56: Knit 14 stitches.
Row 57: K2tog. Knit 3 stitches. SSK. K2tog. Knit 3 stitches. SSK. (10 stitches)
Cut yarn leaving a 12 inch tail. With tapestry needle, draw yarn tightly through remaining 10 stitches. Weave in end. You may wish to reinforce the “seam” created by the decreases at the fingertips; use duplicate stitch to tighten the seam as you weave in your tail. Keep in mind your “purl-side” or “wrong-side” will be the visible outside of your glove, so keep that side neat.

Thumb

Put 6 stitches from stitch holder onto two No. 9 DPNs (3 stitches per needle).
Thumb Row 1: Beginning with the first picked up stitch, knit 6 stitches in the round.
Thumb Row 2: Join (taking care not to twist stitches) and knit 6.
Thumb Rows 3 thru 6: Knit 6 stitches.
Thumb Row 7: K2tog x 3 (3 stitches).
Cut a 12 inch tail and draw tightly through remaining 3 stitches.
Use duplicate stitch to tighten any loose stitches around the “seams” as you weave in your tails. Keep in mind your “purl-side” or “wrong-side” will be the visible outside of your glove, so keep that side neat.
Turn mittens purl-side (wrong-side) out – this is now the “right-side” of your work. Embroider children’s snowflake design.

Snowflake Design

The snowflake design is made by embroidering the mitten using a tapestry needle and one strand of royal blue yarn. Tip: You may want to practice sewing the snowflake on your gauge swatch before you embroider your mittens.

Using the knitting’s natural holes as a guide, embroider the following charted design onto the back of the hand of each mitten. I found it easiest to begin with the center stitches and work my way out and around the snowflake. For all sizes, the center of snowflake should be placed about 1 inch in from thumb crease and 1.5 inches above where the rows made with No. 9 needles begin.

In the diagrams below, one line equals one stitch. The stitches shown in red should be embroidered in a continuous manner, sewing into the same hole as the previous stitch. The black stitches should not connect and should have gaps between them. Use the close-up photographs as a guide, as well as the diagrams below

Print the Free Frozen Snowflake Mitten Knitting Pattern

Printable Frozen Snowflake Mitten Knitting Pattern PDF by Liz @PurlsAndPixels

Find More Knitting Patterns

If you like this, check out the other knitting patterns I’ve written. Visit my knitting patterns page to see my full collection.

Find all of the knitting patterns by Liz Chandler @PurlsAndPixels.

This pattern is for personal use, gifting, and charitable donation of completed items. You may also sell handmade items created using this pattern. Do not copy this pattern and distribute it. If you’d like to share the pattern, refer your friends to my website, purlsandpixels.com so they may obtain a copy.

If you find any errors or have any questions, email purlsandpixels@gmail.com and I will do my best to help.

I’d love to see your finished work! Tag your photos with @PurlsAndPixels on Twitter or Instagram.

December 10, 2014April 18, 2021

Knitting Tension

Maintaining yarn tension in your knitting is essential to keeping your stitches even. If you do not place your yarn loops on the needles evenly, your knitting work will end up irregular, saggy, or filled with holes. To prevent these knitting problems, practice wrapping each stitch around your needles with the same tightness or “tension.” Making sure all your stitches match one another will help your final knitting to look even and consistent.

Pay close attention to how your stitches wrap around the needles. Ideal knit stitches are looped with just enough tension that they fit around the needle with no gaps. On the other hand, stitches should not be pulled so tightly that the loops get stuck in place; if your stitches cannot slide down the needles easily, you will have a hard time working into them.

How tightly you knit can greatly impact your finished object. If you do not have the correct tension, you can end up with very differently sized knit pieces, even when knitting with the same yarn and needles. Loose tension will create larger stitches, while tight tension creates smaller stitches.

Below you’ll find video and written guides, which I hope will help you improve your knitting tension.

Video Guide: Knitting Tension

Written Guide: Knitting Tension

Practicing different yarn holds can help you with your knitting tension. Try holding the yarn in several ways, wrapping it around your hand or fingers until you find a comfortable option to keep your string taut.

Find a comfortable yarn hold to help you improve your knitting tension - knitting lessons from Liz @PurlsandPixles - a knitting lesson from Liz @PurlsAndPixels

With each stitch, try to ensure that you loop the yarn around the knitting needle snuggly. Take care not to knit your loops too tightly, however, or you will have trouble inserting your needle into the stitches for the next row. The key to knitting tension is to place each stitch on the needles in with the same moderate tautness: not too tight and not too loose.

Knitting tension that is too tight. — Too Tight

Knitting tension that is too loose. — Too Tight

Another way to maintain even tension is to keep a close eye on the stitches that you have just worked. If you notice a stitch on your needles that is too loose, you can adjust that stitch before you knit further. A loose stitch on your needles can be tightened by pulling the excess yarn back towards the yarn ball, one stitch at a time.

Improving Tension by Adjusting Stitches as You Go

Step 1: How to keep even knitting tension by fixing loose stitches as you go - a knitting lesson from Liz @PurlsAndPixels

Adjust a Loose Stitch, Step 1:

Identify the loose stitch by noticing that it sticks out from the righthand needle a bit more than the other stitches.

Step 2: How to keep even knitting tension by fixing loose stitches as you go - a knitting lesson from Liz @PurlsAndPixels

Adjust a Loose Stitch, Step 2:

Gently pull on the first stitch to the left of the loose stitch; this will tighten the loose stitch, while loosening the stitch on which you are pulling. Once you have achieved the desired tightness in the loose stitch, let go of the stitch you just pulled.

Step 3: How to keep even knitting tension by fixing loose stitches as you go - a knitting lesson from Liz @PurlsAndPixels

Adjust a Loose Stitch, Step 3:

Pinch the next stitch to the left and gently pull it to tighten up the previous stitch. Continue gently pulling the stitches, one at a time, moving toward your left. Ensure you are tightening the previous stitches to the correct tension as you go.

Step 4: How to keep even knitting tension by fixing loose stitches as you go - a knitting lesson from Liz @PurlsAndPixels

Adjust a Loose Stitch, Step 4:

When you reach the last stitch on your righthand needle, pull the working yarn to tighten the last stitch to the correct tension. The loose stitching should be fixed, and you can resume knitting your pattern.