Minimalist knitting patterns are simple to knit and you can make them over and over again. But your plain knitwear does not have to stay plain. Try to customize knits to fit your personal style. You can take any simple pattern and spice it up by adding decorations or changing the yarn design.
Customize Your Knitting
Once you have learned to knit the basic patterns, you may want to find a way to make simple designs a little more unique. Choosing a colorful, variegated yarn is a great way to spice things up. Try a new material, like wool, alpaca, or silk.
Add pom-poms, tassels, bows, or faux flowers. If you are familiar with embroidery, stitch embroidered embellishments onto your knitwear using your darning needle and yarn.
Substitute Yarn
You can alter the look of a knitted item dramatically just by changing the recommended yarn. Experiment with both color and yarn material to create your own, one-of-a-kind knit. The most important thing to keep in mind when substituting yarn, however, is to choose yarn that is the same weight as the recommended yarn. When working through my beginners’ lessons make sure you select a “worsted weight” yarn.
You can also try working with different yarn materials. Each type of fiber that is spun into yarn has its own unique look and feel, so changing the yarn material can change the texture of your knit pieces. When substituting yarn, choose materials that are similar to your starting yarn. For example, wool and alpaca make excellent substitutes for acrylic yarn; they are soft, stretchy, and warm. Try a bamboo-based yarn instead of cotton, since it is absorbent and holds its shape.
Explore the wide array of colors and try a few of your favorites. Yarn-makers offer solid color yarns in every shade of the rainbow. Or, add pattern and depth to your knitting by working with a multicolored or ‘”variegated” yarn. Skeins of variegated yarn are dyed with different sections of coordinated colors; they allow you to knit in multiple colors without switching balls of yarn. Some variegated yarn is even made to be “self-striping;” it is dyed in sections that create the illusion of separately knit color stripes.
Let your imagination run wild when it comes to decorating your finished knits. Handmake or purchase fun accents to compliment your knitwear. To any simple knit, consider adding:
(Links above lead to Amazon.com associates shopping.)
Find Simple Patterns
You can customize any of my simple knitting patterns using these ideas. Changing the yarn color, material, or decorating hats, gloves, headbands, and legwarmers makes these classic knits unique.
After picking out your yarn and knitting needles, you will have one last task: choosing knitting tools. To complete a knitting project for beginners, you will need sharp scissors and a darning needle. Later, when you start making more complex knitting projects, you may also need stitch markers and stitch holders.
Scissors
At the end of a knitting project, you will need to free your work from the ball by cutting the yarn. While there are several gadgets designed to clip yarn, scissors are the most versatile cutting tool to put in your knitting bag. “Sewing” or “precision tip” scissors work best to trim yarn, as they are small and easy to maneuver.
Be sure you choose very sharp scissors. Dull scissors tend to fray the yarn ends, making them difficult to thread through the eye of a darning needle. To help your scissors stay sharp for a long time, do not use them for anything other than snipping yarn and thread.
After you have cut your project away from the ball, you will be left with dangling yarn tails. You will weave them into your project using a darning needle. These needles look just like a sewing needle but are much larger. They have blunted tips that will not snag your yarn. Sometimes, darning needles are sometimes referred to as “tapestry needles;” however, tapestry needles usually have bent tips. Whether the manufacturer calls it a “darning needle” or a “tapestry needle,” as a beginner, you will want to choose a straight, blunted needle with an eye large enough to thread your yarn through.
Many knitting patterns you read will recommend you use a “stitch marker.” This is a small clip, ring, or piece of string used to keep track of your place while knitting. Stitch markers can be slipped onto your needles to mark an endpoint, or they can be clipped onto a specific stitch to keep track of it. Common stitch markers look like plastic safety pins. You also can find a variety of decorative stitch markers, some looking like small rings, others like lever-back earrings. Try to find stitch markers that clip open and closed, as this type of marker can be removed from your work more easily.
You can find a set of stitch markers on Amazon.com at this affiliate link: Locking Stitch Markers
When a stitch holder is not available, you can sometimes substitute a piece of yarn as a stitch holder. Using a darning needle, you can slip stitches onto a bit of leftover yarn, then tie the yarn ends together to secure the stitches in place temporarily.
In most knitting patterns, you will see a “materials” section, which lists the specific tools you will need to make each project. When in doubt about what yarn or tools to get, always check your pattern for a supply list.
Tools to Knit a Face Scrubby or Scarf
If you are following my Learn to Knit Guide, you will start with a small Face Scrubby or Beginner Scarf. Both projects require the same tools. You can find knitting tools at most craft stores or on Amazon by using the affiliate links below:
Once you have chosen your yarn, you will have another big decision to make before you can start learning to knit: what kind of knitting needles will you use?
Choosing Knitting Needles
There are a few kinds of knitting needles to choose from: straight needles, circular needles, and double point needles. Most knitting needles come in a variety of materials, including wood, bamboo, and metal. Try a few different types of needles to decide what feels the most comfortable to you.
Types of Knitting Needles
Straight Needles
When most people think of knitting needles, they think of straight needles. These are two matching rods, often pictured sticking out of a ball of yarn. One end of each needle has a sharpened tip. The other end has a knob, which keeps the yarn from slipping off. Straight needles come in varying lengths, which allow you to make larger or smaller items more comfortably, depending on the needs of your project. These needles are useful for making flat pieces of fabric. You can craft scarves, blankets, washcloths, and dishcloths with straight knitting needles. You can also knit flat pieces that can be sewn together to create a garment like a sweater.
Circular Needles
More unusual looking, but also more versatile, are circular knitting needles. Most circular needles have a flexible cord that connects the sharp working points of the needles. You can use circular needles to knit flat pieces of fabric like washcloths and scarves. You can also create seamless knitted tubes to make things like hats, sweaters, mittens, and socks. Circular knitting needles are made in different lengths; the longer the needles, the more stitches you can knit. Shorter circular needles are perfect for hats and smaller accessories. Longer knitting needles are useful for projects like knit sweaters and blankets.
Double Point Needles
Double point needles (DPNs) are straight rods with sharpened points on either end. This allows you to knit with both sides of the needle. DPNs are mainly used for knitting smaller items that are tube-shaped, such as gloves, leg warmers, and baby hats. A package of DPNs typically comes with set of five identical needles. You will use at least three needles to hold your stitches and one needle to work into the yarn and make your next row. Often, especially in more simple patterns, the fifth needle is not used at all.
Metal or Wooden Knitting Needles
You can buy your needles in several different materials, most notable of which are metal, wood, and bamboo. Metal needles maintain their sharpness longer and are less prone to breakage than wooden and bamboo needles. On the other hand, wooden and bamboo needles are slightly less slippery than metal knitting needles; this means your knit stitches will not fall off them as easily as they might with a set of metal needles. Wooden and bamboo needles also make less noise as you work, minimizing the “clink” sound made as the needles come together. Bamboo weighs the least of the three materials, making these needles noticeably lighter, especially in larger sizes.
Knitting Needle Size
Most knitting needles are assigned a United States Number (US No.) and a millimeter (mm) measurement. The abbreviations “US,” “No.” or “US No.” are used to refer to the “American” knitting needle system which assigns a number to each needle size.
The millimeter measurement refers to the “diameter” or distance across the center of the knitting needle. For example, a US No. 7 / 4.5 mm needle has a diameter of 4.5 mm.
Most yarn labels suggest a needle to match the yarn weight, so referring to the packaging is a great place to start when choosing a needle size. You will also see recommended needle sizes for each type of yarn on the Crafty Yarn Council’s Standard Yarn Weight System chart.
Starter Knitting Needles
When selecting your first knitting needles, think about what your current project needs and what will be useful in your future knitting.
Metal needles, especially those of high quality, can last a lifetime and may never need to be replaced. Bamboo or wooden needles, on the other hand, can be easier for beginners to use, since they grip the yarn a bit better than a metal needle.
Circular needles are more versatile and can be used for many projects in the future since you can knit both flat and circular pieces with them.
When you are following a pattern, remember to consult the materials list to find the correct knitting needles for the project.
Needles to Knit a Face Scrubby
If you are following my Learn to Knit Guide, you will start with a small Face Scrubby. Choose between straight needles or long circular needles, then select a US No 7 (4.5 MM) size. You can find knitting needles at most craft stores and on Amazon by using the affiliate links below:
*Bamboo or wooden needles may be easier than metal for beginners.
Face Scrubby Knitting Pattern
You will also need a knitting pattern to get started. You can find my Free Beginner Face Scrubby Pattern. I suggest this for your very first knitting project because it is very small and simple; you’ll have a finished project quickly.
Needles to Knit a Scarf
To start learning to knit with a scarf instead, you will need to choose a US No. 8 (5.0 mm) sized needles. You can also choose between straight and long circular needles for the Beginner Knit Scarf project. You can find knitting needles at most craft stores and on Amazon by using the affiliate links below:
When you start gathering your materials, choosing yarn for knitting will be one of your first and most exciting tasks.
First, a bit of vocabulary to help you get started: a ball of yarn is often called a “skein.” You will see that word come up a lot in knitting, so it’s best to know it from the beginning.
Choosing Yarn
While picking out yarn can be one of the most exciting parts of knitting, it can also be intimidating. From basic wool to luxurious silk blends, there are countless types of yarn to choose from. Yarn strands can be thick, thin, and everywhere in between. And you can find yarn in almost every shade in the rainbow; some created in bulk by machines, and some handcrafted with natural and plant-based dyes. Learning about yarn sizing (“yarn weight”) and the materials from which yarn is made can help make choosing yarn much less overwhelming.
Yarn Weight
When you first hear the term “yarn weight” you may think of putting yarn on a scale and measuring it in ounces or grams. However, in knitting and other fiber arts, “yarn weight” is a term that refers to the thickness (or thinness) of each strand of yarn.
The Crafty Yarn Council has standardized yarn weights in a convenient chart called the “Standard Yarn Weight System.” This system organizes yarn into categories based on weight (strand thickness). This chart can help you determine what kind of yarn you will need for your project. You can find it at the Crafty Yarn Council’s website: http://craftyarncouncil.com/weight.html.
To find out the weight of your yarn, start with the yarn label. Almost every yarn label has the yarn’s weight listed. Many packages note the weight by displaying a “yarn weight symbol.” Those symbols look like little balls of yarn with numbers on them; the number represents the thickness of the yarn.
Yarn weights range from 0 to 7. Yarns with a weight of 0 are thinnest, while yarns with a weight of 7 are the thickest. The weight symbol is often placed on the label of yarn you will purchase. Not only does the symbol indicate the thickness of the yarn you are looking at, but also can give you a guide on whether it is suitable for the project you wish to make.
Midweight Yarn
One of the most commonly available yarn weights is Medium (4) Yarn; it is often called “worsted” weight yarn. Worsted weight (4) yarn is a mid-weight yarn that is suitable for a variety of craft projects. The thickness of this yarn makes it is nice for basic garments like hats, mittens, scarves, and blankets. The wide availability of worsted weight yarn can also be quite useful. You will frequently find basic worsted weight yarn in big box and bulk crafts stores. It is also often handmade by boutique yarn sellers in luxurious materials and a rainbow of colors. Because of its versatility, I recommend worsted weight yarn for beginners.
Thin Yarn
Yarn weights smaller than 4 are thinner than worsted weight yarn. These yarns take longer to knit into clothing, since you will need to make more stitches to create the same sized garment. Your final product with a thinner weight yarn will also be thinner, making light (3), fine (2), superfine (1) and lace (0) yarns perfect for garments like socks, shawls, and lace. Finer yarns are often made of luxury fibers like silk, angora, or alpaca; because knitters spend more time on a pattern made with thin yarn, many prefer to work in higher quality materials for these projects.
Thick Yarn
Heavier weight yarns (5, 6, and 7) will knit into final projects much more quickly. Because each stitch will be larger, when made with a thicker yarn, fewer stitches are required to make a project with chunky and bulky yarn. A finished project in this type of yarn will also be much thicker than those made on thinner yarns. The larger the yarn weight number, the bulkier your item will be. People often craft chunky knitted clothing and accessories from bulky (5) and super bulky (6) yarn. Jumbo (7) is usually best suited for oversized blankets, rugs, and other home décor projects.
Yarn Material
When you start looking for your first ball or “skein” of yarn, you will find that there are numerous materials from which yarn is made. Acrylic, wool, and cotton are frequently used yarn materials and can be very cost effective. Fancier materials such as alpaca, silk, and bamboo are usually spun into beautiful luxury yarns. Often, yarn is created by combining different materials.
Yarn Cost
The price of yarn can vary greatly, even among yarn made of similar materials. Different factors impact yarn price. Some materials, like alpaca and angora, are more expensive because it is more difficult to acquire the extra-soft wool. Yarn that has been hand-spun or hand-dyed tends to be priced higher, since it requires much more labor and artistic ability.
Yarn price can also be affected by the amount of yarn that a company can produce at once. Less expensive yarns are generally made by larger companies, which can produce larger quantities of yarn. Each batch of yarn that is colored at the same time is called a “dye-lot.” Because “cheaper” yarns are often made in bulk, they can have large or no “dye-lots.” A bulk yarn maker can create more skeins of yarn that are perfectly matched than a smaller craft yarn maker would be able to make. As a result, yarn made in bulk with large dye-lots is usually much less expensive.
Having yarn available in larger or no dye-lots is useful because it ensures better access to the correct color. For example, if you underestimate the amount of yarn you need for a specific project, you can get more of the exact color you need; this is not usually possible with yarn that is dyed in smaller batches. And while the materials used in less expensive yarn tend to be less unique, it does not necessarily mean they are always of lower quality. If “fancy” yarn is not in your budget, you can still find plenty of soft, beautiful, and economical yarn to work with.
Choosing Yarn for a Knitting Project
The yarn you choose should always depend on what you are making.
Hats, mittens, scarves, and other items of clothing turn out well when made in acrylic or wool yarns. Both acrylic and wool are stretchy, warm, and do not tend to hold water and moisture. Acrylic yarn is often softer, can last longer, and your finished piece will not be eaten by moths. However, acrylic is simply another name for plastic, so classic sheep’s wool is a more environmentally friendly option for a cost-effective clothing yarn.
If you plan to make washcloths, towels, or anything else that should be absorbent, choose a cotton-based yarn. Keep in mind that cotton does not stretch like wool and acrylic, so do not expect the things you knit with a cotton yarn to have a huge amount of give.
Starter Yarns
When you start learning to knit, you will probably have to throw out some yarn. The string will tangle. You will drop a stitch off the needles. You will make mistakes. That is ok! It is part of the learning process. With any luck, you will be able to salvage practice projects to reuse the yarn. But, in case your yarn becomes hopelessly tangled, you may want to save the fancy yarns for later. Starting with an economical ball of yarn may save you some heartache if your yarn gets damaged while you are learning.
Yarn to Knit a Face Scrubby
If you are following my Learn to Knit Guide, you will start with a small Face Scrubby. Select a worsted weight yarn made of cotton in any color you like. You do not have to choose a solid color; multi-colored yarn looks nice, as well. You can find cotton yarn at most craft stores and on Amazon by using the affiliate link below:
You will also need a knitting pattern to get started. You can find my Free Beginner Face Scrubby Pattern. I suggest this for your very first knitting project because it is very small and simple; you’ll have a finished project quickly.
Yarn to Knit a Scarf
If you want to invest a little more time in your first knitting project, a Beginner Knit Scarf is made in the same way as a Face scrubby, but it is larger. If you’d rather start learning to knit with a scarf, you will need the following yarn (Amazon affiliate links below):
When decreases make the top of a hat too small to work on your circular needles, you will need to switch to a different knitting method to finish your project. As you saw in the last lesson, you can move from circular to double point needles (DPNs). Or, you can use the Magic Loop to finish out the top of a hat that you’ve been knitting from the bottom-up. You will need a long circular needle; I prefer a 36-inch cord (which you can find on Amazon with this affiliate link). The Magic Loop will allow you to keep making decreases, reducing the length of each round; this rounds off and closes the top of your hat.
Below you will find both video and written guides to help you learn how to transition from working on Circular Needles to working in the Magic Loop.
Video Guide: How to Switch from Knitting in the Round on Circular Needles to Knitting in the Magic Loop
Written Guide: How to Switch from Knitting in the Round on Circular Needles to Knitting in the Magic Loop
Before you begin this knitting method switch, you will need to know how many live stitches are on your needles. Check the pattern you are following to see how many stitches are on your needles, or count them. In the example here, I have 48 total live stitches on my shorter circular needle.
Switch from Circular to Magic Loop, Step 1:
Work up to the point where you’d like to switch knitting methods (usually the end/beginning of a row/round is the best place to start). Set the needle in your right hand aside.
Divide the total number of live stitches on your circular needles by the number of needles to which you will be moving. Here, I will divide 48 stitches onto two needles, so my math is:
48 ÷ 2 = 24
This means you’ll need to place roughly 24 stitches on each double point needle. Because decreases are involved, this is an estimate not an exact number of stitches to be placed each needle.
Switch from Circular to Magic Loop, Step 2:
Pick up one tip of a long circular needle with your right hand.
Switch from Circular to Magic Loop, Step3:
Begin working the live stitches off the short circular needle and onto the long circular needle tip.
Switch from Circular to Magic Loop, Step4:
Work roughly the number of stitches you calculated in Step 1 onto the long circular needle, except stop at a decrease. When the current row/round contains decreases, remember to count the live stitches coming from the left needle separately.
Switch from Circular to Magic Loop, Step5:
Pull the long circular needle tip in your right hand toward your left, allowing the live stitches to slide from the needle onto the cord.
Switch from Circular to Magic Loop, Step6:
While continuing to hold the same long circular needle tip in your right hand, rotate your work so that you can continue working off the short circular needle and onto the long circular needle tip.
Switch from Circular to Magic Loop, Step7:
Work the remaining stitches from the short circular needle onto the long circular needle tip that is held in your right hand.
Switch from Circular to Magic Loop, Step8:
The short circular needle will now be free of the work; set it aside.
Switch from Circular to Magic Loop, Step9:
At this point, roughly half of your total stitches should be on one tip of the circular needle and the other half should be held by the cord.
Switch from Circular to Magic Loop, Step10:
Turn your work, placing the live stitches in your left hand. Slide the empty circular needle tip into the live stitches and prepare to start knitting in the Magic Loop. (See this lesson on Knitting in the Magic Loop if you aren’t sure how this method works.)
When knitting a hat from the bottom, up, you will add decreases at the top. These decreases make your rows shorter, which allows you to round off and close the top of your hat. However, if you have been knitting with a circular needle, the decreases will eventually make the rows too short to fit on your needle. You will need to switch knitting methods so you can continue decreasing the length of your rounds. In this knitting lesson, I’ll show you how to move a hat top from circular needles to Double Point Needles (DPNs).
Below you will find both video and written guides to help you learn how to transition from working with circular needles to Double Point Needles.
Video Guide: How to Switch from Knitting in the Round on Circular Needles to Knitting with Double Point Needles (DPNs) – Switching Needles for Hat Decreases
Written Guide: How to Switch from Knitting in the Round on Circular Needles to Knitting with Double Point Needles (DPNs) – Switching Needles for Hat Decreases
Before you begin this knitting method switch, you will need to know how many live stitches are on your needles. Check the pattern you are following to see how many stitches are on your needles, or count them. In the example here, I have 48 total live stitches on my circular needle.
Switch from Circular to DPNs, Step 1:
Work up to the point where you would like to switch knitting methods (usually the end/beginning of a row/round is the best place to start). Set the needle in your right hand aside.
Divide the total number of live stitches on your circular needles by the number of needles to which you will be moving. Here, I will divide 48 stitches onto three needles, so my math is:
48 ÷ 3 = 16
This means you’ll need to place roughly 16 stitches on each double point needle. Because decreases are involved in this example, this is an estimate not an exact number of stitches to be placed each needle.
Switch from Circular to DPNs, Step 2:
Pick up one DPN with your right hand. If you have been using a stitch marker to keep track of the beginning/end of your rounds, you can set it aside.
Switch from Circular to DPNs, Step3:
Begin working the live stitches off the circular needle and onto the DPN tip.
Switch from Circular to DPNs, Step4:
Work roughly the number of stitches you calculated in Step 1 onto your first DPN, except stop at a decrease. When the current row/round contains decreases, remember to count the live stitches coming from the left needle separately.
Switch from Circular to DPNs, Step5:
Let go of the first DPN and pick up a second DPN in your right hand. Begin working the next live stitches off the circular needle in your left hand.
Switch from Circular to DPNs, Step6:
Work roughly the number of stitches you calculated in Step 1 onto your second DPN, except stop at a decrease.
Switch from Circular to DPNs, Step7:
Let go of the second DPN and pick up a third DPN in your right hand. Begin working the next live stitches off the circular needle in your left hand.
Switch from Circular to DPNs, Step8:
Work the remaining live stitches off the circular needle in your left hand and onto the third DPN.
Switch from Circular to DPNs, Step9:
At this point the circular needle will be free from the work; set it aside.
Switch from Circular to DPNs, Step10:
Pick up the fourth (the empty) DPN with your right hand and prepare to start knitting in the round with just your DPNs. (See this lesson on Knitting with DPNs if you aren’t sure how this method works.)
Below you will find both video and written guides to help you learn how to transition from working in the Magic Loop to working on Double Point Needles.
Video Guide: How to Switch from Knitting in the Round in the Magic Loop to Knitting on Double Point Needles
Written Guide: How to Switch from Knitting in the Round in the Magic Loop to Knitting on Double Point Needles
Before you begin this knitting method switch, you will need to know how many live stitches are on your needles. Check the pattern you are following to see how many stitches are on your needles, or count them. In the example here, I start with 23 stitches on each side of my magic loop, which is equal to 46 total live stitches.
Switch from Magic Loop to DPNs, Step 1:
Work up to the point where you’d like to switch knitting methods (usually the end/beginning of a row/round is the best place to start). Set the needle in your right hand aside.
Divide the total number of live stitches on your circular needles by the number of needles you will be moving to. Here, I will divide 46 stitches onto three needles, so my math is:
46 ÷ 3 = 15.3333
This means you’ll need to place 15 stitches on each double point needle. You’ll have one stitch left-over (the .33333), so one DPN will need to hold 16 stitches.
Switch from Magic Loop to DPNs, Step 2:
Pick up one DPN with your right hand.
Switch from Magic Loop to DPNs, Step3:
Begin working the live stitches off the circular needle and onto the DPN tip.
Switch from Magic Loop to DPNs, Step4:
Work the number of stitches you calculated in Step 1 onto your first DPN; here, I will work 15 stitches onto the first DPN.
Switch from Magic Loop to DPNs, Step5:
Let go of the first DPN and pick up a second DPN in your right hand. Begin working the next live stitches off the circular needle in your left hand.
Switch from Magic Loop to DPNs, Step6:
Work until the circular needle tip in your left hand is empty.
Switch from Magic Loop to DPNs, Step7:
Let go of the circular needle tip in your left hand, then grab the other tip of the circular needle with your right hand.
Switch from Magic Loop to DPNs, Step8:
Gently pull the circular needle toward your right and through the stitches until they rest on the first end of the circular needle tip. Rotate your work so the circular needle tip is held in your left hand, pointing toward your right.
Switch from Magic Loop to DPNs, Step9:
With the second DPN, continue knitting live stitches off the circular needle until the second DPN holds the number of stitches you calculated in Step 1; here, I will knit until the second DPN holds 16 stitches.
Switch from Magic Loop to DPNs, Step10:
Let go of the second DPN and pick up the third DPN in your right hand.
Switch from Magic Loop to DPNs, Step11:
Work the remaining stitches off the circular needle in your left hand. Set empty circular needle aside and prepare to start knitting in the round with just your DPNs. (See this lesson on Knitting with DPNs if you aren’t sure how this method works.)
Practice With My Knitting Patterns
Ready to try it?
I’ve added instructions to make my Cup Cozy with both DPNs and in the Magic Loop. You can practice switching between knitting methods while making this simple knit.
You can switch between knitting methods while working on a project that you’ve been knitting in the round. If you started on double point needles (DPNs) and now want to switch into the Magic Loop, you can move to long circular needles mid-project. You’ll first need to do a little math, as you will need to turn your three sets of live stitches into two sets of live stitches. Then, you will exchange the DPN in your right hand for a long circular needle. I like to use a 36-inch long circular needle when I work on most projects in the magic loop; you can find the circular needles that I am using on Amazon.com (affiliate link).
Below you will find both video and written guides to help you learn how to transition from working on Double Point Needles to working in the Magic Loop.
Video Guide: How to Switch from Knitting in the Round on DPNs to Knitting in the Magic Loop
Written Guide: How to Switch from Knitting in the Round on DPNs to Knitting in the Magic Loop
Before you begin this knitting method switch, you will need to know how many live stitches are on your double point needles. Check the pattern you are following to see how many stitches are on your needles, or count them. In the example here, I start with 46 live stitches on three double point needles.
Switch from DPNs to Magic Loop, Step 1:
Work up to the point where you’d like to switch knitting methods (usually the end/beginning of a row/round is the best place to start). Set the needle in your right hand aside.
Divide the total number of live stitches on your double point needles by the number of needles you will be moving to. Since the magic loop is worked on two needle tips, divide the total number of stitches by two. Here, I will divide 46 stitches onto two needles, so my math is:
46 ÷ 2 = 23
This means you’ll need to place 23 stitches on each end of the circular needle.
Switch from DPNs to Magic Loop, Step 2:
Pick up one tip of a long circular needle with your right hand.
Switch from DPNs to Magic Loop, Step3:
Begin working the live stitches off the first double point needle and onto the circular needle tip.
Switch from DPNs to Magic Loop, Step4:
When you have finished working the live stitches off the first DPN (your first left-hand needle in the old size), it will be free of the project. Set the empty double point needle aside.
Switch from DPNs to Magic Loop, Step5:
Begin knitting live stitches off the second double point needle and onto the first circular needle tip until you’ve worked half of the total number of live stitches. This will be the number of stitches you calculated in Step 1; here, I will stop at 23 stitches.
Switch from DPNs to Magic Loop, Step6:
Pull the circular needle tip in your right hand toward your left, allowing the live stitches to slide from the needle and onto the cord.
Switch from DPNs to Magic Loop, Step7:
While continuing to hold the same circular needle tip in your right hand, rotate your work so that you can work the live stitches off the second double point needle and onto the now empty circular needle tip.
Switch from DPNs to Magic Loop, Step8:
Work the remaining stitches from the second double point needle onto the circular needle tip that is held in your right hand. This will free the second double point needle, which can now be set aside.
Switch from DPNs to Magic Loop, Step9:
Work the remaining stitches from the third double point needle onto the circular needle tip that is held in your right hand. This will free the third double point needle, which can now be set aside. At this point, half of your total stitches should be on one circular needle tip, and the other half should be held by the cord.
Switch from DPNs to Magic Loop, Step10:
Turn your work, placing the live stitches in your left hand. Slide the empty circular needle tip into the live stitches and prepare to start knitting in the Magic Loop. (See this lesson on Knitting in the Magic Loop if you aren’t sure how this method works.)
Practice With My Knitting Patterns
Ready to try it?
I’ve added instructions to make my Cup Cozy with both DPNs and in the Magic Loop. You can practice switching between knitting methods while making this simple knit.
