Switch from Circular to DPNs, Step 1:

Work up to the point where you would like to switch knitting methods (usually the end/beginning of a row/round is the best place to start). Set the needle in your right hand aside.

Divide the total number of live stitches on your circular needles by the number of needles to which you will be moving. Here, I will divide 48 stitches onto three needles, so my math is:

48 ÷ 3 = 16

This means you’ll need to place roughly 16 stitches on each double point needle. Because decreases are involved in this example, this is an estimate not an exact number of stitches to be placed each needle.

Switch from Circular to DPNs, Step 2:

Pick up one DPN with your right hand. If you have been using a stitch marker to keep track of the beginning/end of your rounds, you can set it aside. 

Switch from Circular to DPNs, Step 3:

Begin working the live stitches off the circular needle and onto the DPN tip.

Switch from Circular to DPNs, Step 4:

Work roughly the number of stitches you calculated in Step 1 onto your first DPN, except stop at a decrease. When the current row/round contains decreases, remember to count the live stitches coming from the left needle separately.

Switch from Circular to DPNs, Step 5:

Let go of the first DPN and pick up a second DPN in your right hand. Begin working the next live stitches off the circular needle in your left hand.

Switch from Circular to DPNs, Step 6:

Work roughly the number of stitches you calculated in Step 1 onto your second DPN, except stop at a decrease.

Switch from Circular to DPNs, Step 7:

Let go of the second DPN and pick up a third DPN in your right hand. Begin working the next live stitches off the circular needle in your left hand.

Switch from Circular to DPNs, Step 8:

Work the remaining live stitches off the circular needle in your left hand and onto the third DPN.

Switch from Circular to DPNs, Step 9:

At this point the circular needle will be free from the work; set it aside.

Switch from Circular to DPNs, Step 10:

Pick up the fourth (the empty) DPN with your right hand and prepare to start knitting in the round with just your DPNs. (See this lesson on Knitting with DPNs if you aren’t sure how this method works.)

If you’d rather use the Magic Loop to close your hat tops, you can switch from knitting on circular needles to knitting in the Magic Loop. Find step-by-step instructions in the next lesson.

Switch from Magic Loop to DPNs, Step 1:

Work up to the point where you’d like to switch knitting methods (usually the end/beginning of a row/round is the best place to start). Set the needle in your right hand aside.

Divide the total number of live stitches on your circular needles by the number of needles you will be moving to. Here, I will divide 46 stitches onto three needles, so my math is:

46 ÷ 3 = 15.3333

This means you’ll need to place 15 stitches on each double point needle. You’ll have one stitch left-over (the .33333), so one DPN will need to hold 16 stitches.

Switch from Magic Loop to DPNs, Step 2:

Pick up one DPN with your right hand.  

Switch from Magic Loop to DPNs, Step 3:

Begin working the live stitches off the circular needle and onto the DPN tip.

Switch from Magic Loop to DPNs, Step 4:

Work the number of stitches you calculated in Step 1 onto your first DPN; here, I will work 15 stitches onto the first DPN.

Switch from Magic Loop to DPNs, Step 5:

Let go of the first DPN and pick up a second DPN in your right hand. Begin working the next live stitches off the circular needle in your left hand.

Switch from Magic Loop to DPNs, Step 6:

Work until the circular needle tip in your left hand is empty.

Switch from Magic Loop to DPNs, Step 7:

Let go of the circular needle tip in your left hand, then grab the other tip of the circular needle with your right hand.

Switch from Magic Loop to DPNs, Step 8:

Gently pull the circular needle toward your right and through the stitches until they rest on the first end of the circular needle tip. Rotate your work so the circular needle tip is held in your left hand, pointing toward your right.

Switch from Magic Loop to DPNs, Step 9:

With the second DPN, continue knitting live stitches off the circular needle until the second DPN holds the number of stitches you calculated in Step 1; here, I will knit until the second DPN holds 16 stitches.

Switch from Magic Loop to DPNs, Step 10:

Let go of the second DPN and pick up the third DPN in your right hand.

Switch from Magic Loop to DPNs, Step 11:

Work the remaining stitches off the circular needle in your left hand. Set empty circular needle aside and prepare to start knitting in the round with just your DPNs. (See this lesson on Knitting with DPNs if you aren’t sure how this method works.)

You can also switch from working on Circular Needles to using Double Point Needles; this is helpful in closing hat tops that have been knit from the bottom-up. Find step-by-step instructions in the next lesson.

Switch from DPNs to Magic Loop, Step 1:

Work up to the point where you’d like to switch knitting methods (usually the end/beginning of a row/round is the best place to start). Set the needle in your right hand aside.

Divide the total number of live stitches on your double point needles by the number of needles you will be moving to. Since the magic loop is worked on two needle tips, divide the total number of stitches by two. Here, I will divide 46 stitches onto two needles, so my math is:

46 ÷ 2 = 23

This means you’ll need to place 23 stitches on each end of the circular needle.

Switch from DPNs to Magic Loop, Step 2:

Pick up one tip of a long circular needle with your right hand.  

Switch from DPNs to Magic Loop, Step 3:

Begin working the live stitches off the first double point needle and onto the circular needle tip.

Switch from DPNs to Magic Loop, Step 4:

When you have finished working the live stitches off the first DPN (your first left-hand needle in the old size), it will be free of the project. Set the empty double point needle aside.

Switch from DPNs to Magic Loop, Step 5:

Begin knitting live stitches off the second double point needle and onto the first circular needle tip until you’ve worked half of the total number of live stitches. This will be the number of stitches you calculated in Step 1; here, I will stop at 23 stitches.

Switch from DPNs to Magic Loop, Step 6:

Pull the circular needle tip in your right hand toward your left, allowing the live stitches to slide from the needle and onto the cord.

Switch from DPNs to Magic Loop, Step 7:

While continuing to hold the same circular needle tip in your right hand, rotate your work so that you can work the live stitches off the second double point needle and onto the now empty circular needle tip.

Switch from DPNs to Magic Loop, Step 8:

Work the remaining stitches from the second double point needle onto the circular needle tip that is held in your right hand. This will free the second double point needle, which can now be set aside.

Switch from DPNs to Magic Loop, Step 9:

Work the remaining stitches from the third double point needle onto the circular needle tip that is held in your right hand. This will free the third double point needle, which can now be set aside. At this point, half of your total stitches should be on one circular needle tip, and the other half should be held by the cord.

Switch from DPNs to Magic Loop, Step 10:

Turn your work, placing the live stitches in your left hand. Slide the empty circular needle tip into the live stitches and prepare to start knitting in the Magic Loop. (See this lesson on Knitting in the Magic Loop if you aren’t sure how this method works.)

You can also switch from working in the Magic Loop to using Double Point Needles. Find step-by-step instructions in the next lesson.

At the base of your mitten thumb, you will probably have a yarn tail to weave in. When you use a stitch holder to separate and join a thumb, this will leave both a loose end and a hole at the base of the thumb. You can use the yarn tail to duplicate the knitting pattern by sewing it through the stitches with a darning needle. This will allow you to invisibly close the gap, as well as hide the loose end. After weaving in the yarn tails, I always add a small, nearly invisible knot to anchor the loose end inside the glove.

Weave in Thumb Base Tail, Step 1:

Thread the loose end through the eye of a darning needle.

Weave in Thumb Base Tail, Step 2:

Pick up the work so you can see the gap at the base of the thumb. Point the thumb away from you and the top of the glove toward you. The hole will appear to be almost diamond-shaped when held in this manner.

Weave in Thumb Base Tail, Step 3:

Locate the stitch directly across the gap from where the yarn tail leaves your knitting. Insert the tip of your darning needle upward (toward the thumb tip) and through that stitch.

Weave in Thumb Base Tail, Step 4:

Pull the needle and the yarn tail through the stitch.

Weave in Thumb Base Tail, Step 5:

Following the left leg of the next stitch upwards, locate the top of the first stitch to the right of the gap. Begin to trace this stitch with your yarn by inserting the tip of the darning needle under the two legs of the next stitch up.

Weave in Thumb Base Tail, Step 6:

Pull the needle and the yarn tail through the stitch only tightly enough to match the pattern of the work.

Weave in Thumb Base Tail, Step 7:

Follow the right leg of the stitch down, toward the hand. Insert your darning needle tip under the loop at the base of the stitch leg. Then, insert the needle tip under the stitch directly on the other side of the thumb gap.

Weave in Thumb Base Tail, Step 8:

Pull the needle and the yarn tail through the stitches.

Weave in Thumb Base Tail, Step 9:

Locate the top of the stitch just above your yarn tail. Trace this stitch with your yarn by inserting the tip of the darning needle under the two legs of the next stitch up.

Weave in Thumb Base Tail, Step 10:

Pull the needle and the yarn tail through the stitches. The loose end should now be coming from the space just at the tip of the hand-side of the diamond-shaped gap.

Weave in Thumb Base Tail, Step 11:

Follow the leg of the stitch at the bottom right of the diamond shape upward, toward the thumb. Insert your darning needle tip under the loop at the base of the stitch leg. Then, insert the needle tip under the stitch directly on the other side of the thumb gap.

Weave in Thumb Base Tail, Step 12:

Pull the needle and the yarn tail through the stitches.

Weave in Thumb Base Tail, Step 13:

Insert your darning needle tip down and through the center of the stitch directly on the other side of the gap. Do not pull the yarn tail through just yet.

Weave in Thumb Base Tail, Step 14:

Insert your darning needle tip down and through the center of the stitch located at the left corner of the diamond-shaped gap.

Weave in Thumb Base Tail, Step 15:

Pull the needle and the yarn tail through the stitches.

Weave in Thumb Base Tail, Step 16:

Locate the loop at the bottom corner of the diamond-shape, just below your yarn tail. Insert the tip of the darning needle down and through that loop, then up and under the next stitch leg to the left.

Weave in Thumb Base Tail, Step 17:

Pull the needle and the yarn tail through the stitches.

Weave in Thumb Base Tail, Step 18:

Insert the darning needle tip down and through the center of the stitch just above the yarn tail.

Weave in Thumb Base Tail, Step 19:

Pull the needle and the yarn tail through the stitch and into the inside of the glove.

Weave in Thumb Base Tail, Step 20:

Turn the glove inside-out and locate a purl stitch that is near your yarn tail. Insert the darning needle tip under that stitch.

Weave in Thumb Base Tail, Step 21:

Pull the needle and the yarn tail through the stitch.

Weave in Thumb Base Tail, Step 22:

Remove the tail from the darning needle. Inspect your yarn tail by untwisting it a bit, near your work. Identify the individual yarn plies and count them. Use the tip of your darning needle to help you split the plies into two equal sections. With the four-ply yarn shown, the plies should be split so there are two on each side. Gently separate the two halves of the yarn with your darning needle by sliding it out toward the end of the tail. Take care not to break the strands by pulling too quickly or roughly.

Weave in Thumb Base Tail, Step 23:

Once the tail is split in two, set one half aside and thread the other half through the eye of your darning needle.

Weave in Thumb Base Tail, Step 24:

With the darning needle, sew this half of the tail around the stitch that it is coming out from under. Do this by bringing your needle tip under and through the other side of the stitch.

Weave in Thumb Base Tail, Step 25:

Remove the tail from the darning needle. Lay the halves of the yarn tail out in opposite directions. One side should point right, the other should point left.

Weave in Thumb Base Tail, Step 26:

Tie two small interlocking knots. (See this link for more specific instructions.)  

Weave in Thumb Base Tail, Step 27:

Using the sharpest scissors you have available, clip off both halves of the yarn tail, one at a time, as closely as possible to the knot, without cutting the knot itself.

Weave in Thumb Base Tail, Step 28:

Turn your glove right-side out.

In the next lesson, I’ll show you how to switch from knitting in the round on Double Point Needles (DPNs) to knitting in the Magic Loop with long Circular Needles.

After knitting a mitten and taking it off your needles, you will be left with loose ends at the tips of the fingers and thumb. There will also be a small hole near the loose ends. With a darning needle, you can sew the tails into the mitten in a decorative duplicate stitch. Then, you can weave in the yarn tails on your mitten fingertips and anchor them to the inside of the glove.

Weave in Mitten Fingertip Tail, Step 1:

Thread the loose end through the eye of a darning needle.

Weave in Mitten Fingertip Tail, Step 2:

Pick up the work so that the top edge is facing you. You will see an oval-shaped hole at the top of the mitten. Hold the mitten so the yarn tail is on the left side of the oval.

Weave in Mitten Fingertip Tail, Step 3:

Directly across the oval from your yarn tail, you will see “<”-shaped stitches. Insert the tip of your darning needle under both legs of the “<”-shaped stitch that is closest to the hole.

Weave in Mitten Fingertip Tail, Step 4:

Pull the needle and the yarn tail through the stitch. Do not pull too tightly; try to match the shape and size of the nearby stitch legs.

Weave in Mitten Fingertip Tail, Step 5:

Locate the stitch from which the yarn tail started. Insert the tip of the darning needle down and through the center of that stitch, toward the inside of the glove.

Weave in Mitten Fingertip Tail, Step 6:

Pull the needle and the yarn tail through to the inside of the mitten.

Weave in Mitten Fingertip Tail, Step 7:

Inspect the top of your mitten to see if the new decorative stitch you have just made matches the rest of the stitching. Adjust the tightness of this stitch by gently pulling on the yarn tail until the stitch matches the others.

Weave in Mitten Fingertip Tail, Step 8:

Turn the mitten inside-out. Hold the work so that you can see the oval at the top of the fingertips, with the yarn tail on your left.

Weave in Mitten Fingertip Tail, Step 9:

Insert the tip of the darning needle under and through the next two of the stitches that form the top edge of the oval closest to the yarn tail.

Weave in Mitten Fingertip Tail, Step 10:

Pull the needle and the yarn tail through the stitches.

Weave in Mitten Fingertip Tail, Step 11:

Insert the tip of the darning needle under and through the next two of the stitches that form the bottom edge of the oval closest to the yarn tail.

Weave in Mitten Fingertip Tail, Step 12:

Pull the needle and the yarn tail through the stitches.

Weave in Mitten Fingertip Tail, Step 13:

Repeat steps nine through 12, zig-zagging the yarn tail up and down, through the stitches at the edge of the oval. Take care not to pull too tightly; attempt to match the shape and size of the stitches in your pattern. Once you have reached the right side of the oval, the hole should disappear. Remove the darning needle from the tail.

Weave in Mitten Fingertip Tail, Step 14:

Inspect your yarn tail by untwisting it a bit, near your work. Identify the individual yarn plies and count them. Use the tip of your darning needle to help you split the plies into two equal sections. With the four-ply yarn shown, the plies should be split so there are two on each side.

Weave in Mitten Fingertip Tail, Step 15:

Gently separate the two halves of the yarn with your darning needle by sliding it out toward the end of the tail. Take care not to break the strands by pulling too quickly or roughly.

Weave in Mitten Fingertip Tail, Step 16:

Once the tail is split in two, set one half aside and thread the other half through the eye of your darning needle.

Weave in Mitten Fingertip Tail, Step 17:

With the darning needle, sew this half of the tail around the knit stitch that it is coming out from under. Do this by bringing your needle tip under and through the other side of the knit stitch.

Weave in Mitten Fingertip Tail, Step 18:

Pull the tail through, only tightly enough to match the pattern of your knitting. Do not pull too tightly.

Weave in Bind-off Tail in the Round, Step 19:

Remove the tail from the darning needle. Lay the halves of the yarn tail out in opposite directions. One side should point right, the other should point left.

Weave in Bind-off Tail in the Round, Step 20:

Tie two small interlocking knots. (See this link for more specific instructions.)  

Weave in Bind-off Tail in the Round, Step 21:

Using the sharpest scissors you have available, clip off both halves of the yarn tail, one at a time, as closely as possible to the knot, without cutting the knot itself.

Weave in Bind-off Tail in the Round, Step 22:

Turn the mitten right-side-out and inspect the top of the glove to ensure you have closed the hole.

In the next lesson, I’ll show you how to weave in the tail at the base of a mitten thumb.

After you finish knitting a mitten, you will need to smooth out the jog left by your long-tail cast on. Using the loose end at the cuff, you can fix the jog. Then, weave in that cast on tail of your mittens. A tiny knot at the end will anchor your tail to the inside of your work and help ensure that it will stay in place for a long time.

Weave in Cast on Tail Mittens, Step 1:

Thread the loose end through the eye of a darning needle.

Weave in Cast on Tail Mittens, Step 2:

Turn the work so that the cuff of the glove is facing you and the top of the glove is facing down. At the edge of your work, locate the slipknot, which was your first cast on stitch.

Weave in Cast on Tail Mittens, Step 3:

Insert the tip of the darning needle down through the stitch directly behind the slipknot.

Weave in Cast on Tail Mittens, Step 4:

Pull the needle and the yarn tail through the stitch.

Weave in Cast on Tail Mittens, Step 5:

Insert the tip of the darning needle down and through the slipknot.

Weave in Cast on Tail Mittens, Step 6:

Pull the needle and the yarn tail through the slipknot.

Weave in Cast on Tail Mittens, Step 7:

Guide the tip of the darning needle under the edge of the work and toward the front of the work.

Weave in Cast on Tail Mittens, Step 8:

Pull the needle and the yarn tail through to the outside of your work.

Weave in Cast on Tail Mittens, Step 9:

Locate the loop just behind your slipknot on the backside of your work and insert your darning needle tip down and through it.

Weave in Cast on Tail Mittens, Step 10:

Pull the needle and the yarn tail through the stitch. 

Weave in Cast on Tail Mittens, Step 11:

Remove the tail from the darning needle.

Weave in Cast on Tail Mittens, Step 12:

Inspect your yarn tail by untwisting it a bit, near your work. Identify the individual yarn plies and count them. Use the tip of your darning needle to help you split the plies into two equal sections. With the four-ply yarn shown, the plies should be split so there are two on each side.

Weave in Cast on Tail Mittens, Step 13:

Gently separate the two halves of the yarn with your darning needle by sliding it out toward the end of the tail. Take care not to break the strands by pulling too quickly or roughly.

Weave in Cast on Tail Mittens, Step 14:

Once the tail is split in two, set one half aside and thread the other half through the eye of your darning needle.

Weave in Cast on Tail Mittens, Step 15:

With the darning needle, sew this half of the tail around the knit stitch that it is coming out from under. Do this by bringing your needle tip under and through the other side of the knit stitch.

Weave in Cast on Tail Mittens, Step 16:

Pull the tail through, only tightly enough to match the pattern of your knitting. Do not pull too tightly.

Weave in Cast on Tail Mittens, Step 17:

Remove the tail from the darning needle.

Weave in Cast on Tail Mittens, Step 18:

Lay the halves of the yarn tail out in opposite directions. One side should point right, the other should point left.

Weave in Cast on Tail Mittens, Step 19:

Tie two small interlocking knots. (See this link for more specific instructions.)  

Weave in Cast on Tail Mittens, Step 20:

Using the sharpest scissors you have available, clip off both halves of the yarn tail, one at a time, as closely as possible to the knot, without cutting the knot itself.

I’ll show you how to weave in the tails at the mitten fingertips in the next lesson.

Weave in the Cast-on Tail of Mittens:

Learn to weave in the yarn tail at the bottom of your mitten cuff in this first lesson, which can be found at this link.

Weave in the Bind-off Tails on Mittens:

Learn to weave in the yarn tails at the tops of your mitten and thumb in this second lesson, which can be found at this link.

Weave in the Tail at the Base of Fingerless Mitten Thumbs:

Learn to weave in the yarn tail at the base of your glove thumb in this third lesson, which can be found at this link.

In the next lesson, I’ll show you how to switch from knitting in the round on Double Point Needles (DPNs) to knitting in the Magic Loop with long Circular Needles.

If you used a stitch holder to separate and add your glove thumb, you will have a yarn tail and a hole at the base of your glove thumb. You can use the loose end to close the gap as you weave it into your work. Using a bit of duplicate stitch will help you match the pattern of your knitting when you close the thumb hole. Then, you can tie a small interlocking knot that will anchor your loose end into your project.

Weave in Thumb Tail, Step 1:

Thread the loose end through the eye of a darning needle.

Weave in Thumb Tail, Step 2:

Pick up the work so you can see the gap at the base of the thumb. Point the thumb away from you and the top of the glove toward you. The hole will appear to be almost diamond-shaped when held in this manner.

Weave in Thumb Tail, Step 3:

Locate the stitch directly across the gap from where the yarn tail leaves your knitting. Insert the tip of your darning needle upward (toward the thumb tip) and through that stitch.

Weave in Thumb Tail, Step 4:

Pull the needle and the yarn tail through the stitch.

Weave in Thumb Tail, Step 5:

Following the left leg of the next stitch upwards, locate the top of the first stitch to the right of the gap. Begin to trace this stitch with your yarn by inserting the tip of the darning needle under the two legs of the next stitch up.

Weave in Thumb Tail, Step 6:

Pull the needle and the yarn tail through the stitch only tightly enough to match the pattern of the work.

Weave in Thumb Tail, Step 7:

Follow the right leg of the stitch down, toward the hand. Insert your darning needle tip under the loop at the base of the stitch leg. Then, insert the needle tip under the stitch directly on the other side of the thumb gap.

Weave in Thumb Tail, Step 8:

Pull the needle and the yarn tail through the stitches.

Weave in Thumb Tail, Step 9:

Locate the top of the stitch just above your yarn tail. Trace this stitch with your yarn by inserting the tip of the darning needle under the two legs of the next stitch up.

Weave in Thumb Tail, Step 10:

Pull the needle and the yarn tail through the stitches. The loose end should now be coming from the space just at the tip of the hand-side of the diamond-shaped gap.

Weave in Thumb Tail, Step 11:

Follow the leg of the stitch at the bottom right of the diamond shape upward, toward the thumb. Insert your darning needle tip under the loop at the base of the stitch leg. Then, insert the needle tip under the stitch directly on the other side of the thumb gap.

Weave in Thumb Tail, Step 12:

Pull the needle and the yarn tail through the stitches.

Weave in Thumb Tail, Step 13:

Insert your darning needle tip down and through the center of the stitch directly on the other side of the gap. Do not pull the yarn tail through just yet.

Weave in Thumb Tail, Step 14:

Insert your darning needle tip down and through the center of the stitch located at the left corner of the diamond-shaped gap.

Weave in Thumb Tail, Step 15:

Pull the needle and the yarn tail through the stitches.

Weave in Thumb Tail, Step 16:

Locate the loop at the corner of the diamond-shape, just below your yarn tail. Insert the tip of the darning needle down and through that loop.

Weave in Thumb Tail, Step 17:

Pull the tail through to begin closing the gap. Take care to only pull tightly enough to match the pattern of your knitting. Do not pull too tightly.

Weave in Thumb Tail, Step 18:

Locate the loop at the bottom corner of the diamond-shape, just below your yarn tail. Insert the tip of the darning needle down and through that loop, then up and under the next stitch leg to the left.

Weave in Thumb Tail, Step 19:

Pull the needle and the yarn tail through the stitches.

Weave in Thumb Tail, Step 20:

Insert the darning needle tip down and through the center of the stitch just above the yarn tail.

Weave in Thumb Tail, Step 21:

Pull the needle and the yarn tail through the stitch and into the inside of the glove.

Weave in Thumb Tail, Step 22:

Turn the glove inside out and locate a purl stitch that is near your yarn tail. Insert the darning needle tip under and through that stitch.

Weave in Thumb Tail, Step 23:

Pull the needle and the yarn tail through the stitch.

Weave in Thumb Tail, Step 24:

Remove the tail from the darning needle. Inspect your yarn tail by untwisting it a bit, near your work. Identify the individual yarn plies and count them. Use the tip of your darning needle to help you split the plies into two equal sections. With the four-ply yarn shown, the plies should be split so there are two on each side. Gently separate the two halves of the yarn with your darning needle by sliding it out toward the end of the tail. Take care not to break the strands by pulling too quickly or roughly.

Weave in Thumb Tail, Step 25:

Once the tail is split in two, set one half aside and thread the other half through the eye of your darning needle.

Weave in Thumb Tail, Step 26:

With the darning needle, sew this half of the tail around the stitch that it is coming out from under. Do this by bringing your needle tip under and through the other side of the knit stitch.

Weave in Thumb Tail, Step 27:

Remove the tail from the darning needle. Lay the sides of your top yarn tail out in opposite directions. One side should point right, the other should point left.

Weave in Thumb Tail, Step 28:

Tie two small interlocking knots. (See this link for more specific instructions.)  

Weave in Thumb Tail, Step 29:

Using the sharpest scissors you have available, clip off both halves of the yarn tail, one at a time, as closely as possible to the knot, without cutting the knot itself.

Weave in Thumb Tail, Step 30:

Turn your glove right side out.

Finishing mittens is up next. I’ll show you how to round out the tops of mittens weave in all your ends.