A Guide to Transitioning Chicken Pullets from the Brooder
Raising baby chicks has been one of the most rewarding parts of homesteading for me, but figuring out the right time to move those growing little ones outside from their cozy brooder to the big world of the chicken coop can be nerve-wracking. Over the years, I’ve learned (sometimes the hard way) that the timing is key. You want your pullets (young hens) to be comfortable, safe, and well-prepared for the elements and their new life outside.
Here’s what I’ve found to be the best approach when deciding when and how to transition your pullets from their warm indoor space to the great outdoors.
When Are Pullets Ready to Move Outside?
Knowing when your pullets are ready to move outside depends on a few things: their age, feathering, outdoor temperatures, and the safety of your coop setup. Let me walk you through what I’ve learned from my own experience.
Age and Feather Development
Chicks are usually ready to move outside at around 6 to 8 weeks old, but what really matters is their feather development. I remember being so eager to move my first batch of chicks outside that I almost jumped the gun. But they weren’t fully feathered yet, and it would have been too cold for them to handle. Lesson learned! Fully feathered means they’ve grown their adult feathers and can better regulate their body temperature.
Look for that full set of feathers before considering the move. If you see baby down (like in the picture below), they’re not ready yet.
Outdoor Temperature
Even with all their feathers, you want to be sure the nighttime temperatures are warm enough. I usually wait until the nights are consistently above 60°F (15°C). I once tried moving pullets out when it was still dipping into the low 50s at night, thinking they’d be fine since they had feathers. But I ended up sneaking out to the coop in the middle of the night to bring them back inside because they were huddling and cold!
I personally don’t use heat lamps because they can be dangerous—especially in wooden coops. Instead, I recommend using a brooder plate, heating plate, or even heated roosting posts to provide gentle, safe warmth for your pullets if needed.
Coop Setup and Safety
Before moving chicks outside, make sure your coop is ready to welcome them. I can’t stress this enough: your coop needs to be predator-proof. I lost a few pullets early on because I didn’t properly secure the coop. Now, I use hardware cloth instead of chicken wire to close up any gaps where predators like raccoons might try to get in. It’s also worth double-checking your coop’s ventilation and making sure you’ve got good bedding in place.
If your coop has a run, make sure it’s well-covered and secure. Pullets are small and can easily be preyed on by hawks or other predators. Be sure the run is escape proof. It’s for their safety, not to keep them locked up. These little ones are sneaky and can get out through much smaller openings than the bigger hens. When they get loose, it can be an adventure trying to get them back into the pen.
Flock Integration
If you already have an established flock, introducing your pullets can be tricky. I once made the mistake of tossing my new pullets into the coop without a proper introduction, and let’s just say, it didn’t go well. Older hens can be bullies as they assert the pecking order.
The typical approach is to section off part of the run or use a chicken wire divider so the older hens can see the pullets without being able to peck at them. After about a week, they’ll be more familiar with each other, and the integration should go smoother.
Or, you can choose to let your chicks grow into pullets alongside the rest of your birds. But, never just toss new chicks in without protection; set up a rabbit hutch inside your main coop. The babies will be able to grow up safely, since the bigger chickens can’t get to them. Once they are big enough to be set free, they will already have been accepted as part of the main flock’s daily life. Read more about how I set up a rabbit hutch to work as a chick brooder here.
Quick Steps to Transition Pullets Outside
So let’s sum up. Here are the four key steps I’ve taken to successfully move my chicks outside in the past:
1. Gradually Reduce Brooder Heat
About a week before I plan to move the chicks outside, I start reducing the heat in their brooder. If you’ve been using a brooder plate, gradually lower it to help them adjust to cooler nights. This helps them acclimate to the outdoor conditions. I didn’t do this with my first flock, and they struggled a bit with the cold at first.
2. Introduce the Coop During the Day
I always like to start by letting the pullets explore the outdoor coop during the day. It gives them a chance to get used to the space without the stress of a cold night. After a few days, they’re usually more confident and familiar with their new home, making the nighttime transition easier.
3. Move Them Out at Night
After a few days of daytime exploring, I move them to the coop overnight. The first night, I won’t lie—I’m always a bit anxious! I check on them (probably too much), but they generally settle in just fine.
4. Monitor Their Behavior
For the first few nights, I keep a close eye on them. If they seem huddled together for warmth, I’ll make sure their brooder plate or heated roosting post is working well. But usually, by the time they’re fully feathered and it’s warm enough, they do just fine.
What to Watch For After Moving Them Outside
Once your pullets are in the coop, watch for signs that they’re adjusting well. Here are a few things to look out for:
Huddling together at night: This can be a sign that they’re cold. Make sure they have enough bedding, and consider using a brooder plate or heated roosting post if needed.
Pecking and aggression: It’s normal for the older hens to peck a bit as they establish the pecking order, but if it turns into constant bullying, you may need to separate them temporarily.
Feather loss or stress: Keep an eye on their feathers and energy levels. If they seem overly stressed, it might be worth giving them a bit more time in their separate area before full integration.
What to Do If a Pullet Gets Injured when Joining the Flock
Unfortunately, accidents can happen during the transition, whether it’s due to pecking from older hens or just rough play among the pullets. Separate an injured chicken if the others are hurting her.
Clean then cover her wounds before exposing her to the other chickens again, or they will peck at the open sores. I always keep Rooster Booster Pick No More on hand for these situations. This product is a lifesaver when it comes to protecting an injured pullet’s wounds from further pecking by the flock. The bitter taste discourages other chickens from pecking at the injury, which helps prevent infection and allows the pullet to heal.
Essentials for the Transition
From my own experience, having the right supplies can make the transition easier for both you and your pullets. You pick up these supplies at your local farm store, or stock up before there is a problem by using my Amazon Affiliate links. Here’s what I recommend having ready:
Chicken First Aid Kit
Assemble an emergency first aid kit for your chickens. Make sure to include Vetericyn Plus Poultry Care Spray – it’s sort of like a spray-on Neosporin for chickens. Also pick up Rooster Booster Pick No More. After you clean the wound, you will use Pick No More to cover it like a liquid Band-aid. This product helps prevent further pecking at open sores and keeps the injured pullet safe while they heal. I can’t take credit for this tip, my dear friend at Stealin’ Blue Minis told me about this magical chicken medicine. And she was right! Look, the injured chicken shown above grew into a healthy member of the flock:
Heating for Chickens and Pullets
If the nights are still chilly, a brooder plate, heat mat, or heated roosting post is a safer alternative to heat lamps. I never use heat lamps because of the fire risk, so having one of these options helps keep my pullets warm without the danger.
Final Thoughts
Moving pullets outside is a big step, and it can feel a little nerve-wracking the first time. But if you take the time to ensure they’re ready—fully feathered, temperatures are warm enough, and your coop is secure—it will go smoothly. With the right supplies and a gradual transition, your pullets will thrive in their new outdoor space. And don’t forget, if you need to stock up on essentials for your coop, check out my Amazon Affiliate recommendations page to get everything you need for a safe, successful move!
There are downsides to free-ranging hens. Obviously, predators can be a huge risk to your chickens when they are allowed to wander outside of an enclosure. But I did not guess that the hens would stop laying in the coop and start new nests for their eggs in secret forest spaces.
Letting Chickens Free Range with Rooster Protection
I used to keep my hens in the shelter to protect them from predators like hawks and ravens. But with the addition of two large roosters (twin Jersey Giants named Colonel Sanders and Popeye), I felt the hens were safe enough to free range. The roosters have been great at keeping an eye on the flock, but clearly, they have not been concerned with keeping the eggs in the coop.
The Missing Egg Mystery
For the past two weeks, not a single egg has been laid in the coop. I worried there was something wrong with the chickens’ feed, so I started supplementing with healthy table scraps. Still no eggs.
Finally I started following a pair of hens through the woods to try to find out what they were up to. I discovered that they had created a maze of hidden nests under trees and brush. I don’t think these were just dust baths; the hens had been laying here.
My Hens Stopped Laying in the Coop
So the mystery is solved; my hens decided the forest was a better place to lay eggs than the swanky nest boxes in their safe coop. After days of searching for their hidden nests amongst the trees, I’m pretty sure the local wildlife has been getting a buffet of fresh eggs.
I would love to live and let live, but I feed the chickens to get eggs in return. This is supposed to be a two-way deal. It is time for a brief time-out.
Some Time in the Enclosure to Reset
Don’t get me wrong, this isn’t a punishment for the chickens. Their coop is a large shed, and their enclosure is roomy enough for all the chicken-y activities they can dream up. They’re safer from predators, so Popeye and Colonel Sanders can relax a bit. Plus, they’re getting extra treats to encourage egg laying. But, for now, they need to stay in their run until they re-learn to lay eggs in their cozy inside nests.
So, Here is the Egg-citing Plan
(Spoiler alert!) I got an egg! Here’s what I have done to encourage these little feathered dinosaurs to lay eggs in the coop not the woods:
Keeping Them in the Coop and Run
First, I made sure to shut the enclosure after all the chickens had gone to bed for the night. They may have forgotten how to lay in the coop, but they are still certain to sleep there. This saves me the hasle of chasing wild chickens, that can fly, through a wooded area; I would never catch them this way.
Now that they’re safe and secure, I’m keeping the hens in the coop and run for now. It is giving them a chance to refocus on using their nest boxes. I hope this temporary shift helps them reestablish their laying routine permanently.
Freshening Up the Nest Boxes
I gave their nest boxes a little makeover by adding fresh bedding. In my hens’ boxes, I use excelsior nest pads (Amazon affiliate link), which makes clean-up much faster. I tossed in some calming chamomile and lavender from my garden, as well. The herbs help make the nest boxes feel like a cozy, welcoming spot to lay eggs.
Collecting Eggs More Regularly
To be sure I get as many eggs as possible, I am checking the coop much more often. Usually, I would go out for eggs once a day. But, this time, I want to ensure the eggs end up where they should. One hen, for example, likes to lay on the cold bare floor. This can encourage snakes and packrats to steal eggs. We are working on laying up in the fluffy nest, instead.
Monitoring the Hens’ Habits
I’m closely watching their behavior, especially during the times when they’re most likely to lay. I have several hens who are early layers; they give me eggs for breakfast. The rest of the hens lay through out the late morning and early afternoon. I am closely watching these ladies, because they were the first group to wander.
It worked!
I am now in possession of one, single egg! It is a start. Hopefully the girls will all jump on board and start laying where they ought to!
Once I see the hens laying in the coop again regularly, I’ll gradually let them free-range. Since winter is coming on, though, the flock just might choose their warm enclosure until spring. Either way, hooray for fresh eggs straight from my yard!
Tarantulas Wandering in Southwest Colorado: A Unique Natural Phenomenon
Every fall, a fascinating event unfolds across the plains and foothills of Southwest Colorado—the annual tarantula migration. It’s a natural spectacle that draws attention not only from local residents but also from nature enthusiasts and curious onlookers from across the country. While the thought of hundreds of large, hairy spiders might send shivers down some people’s spines, the tarantula migration is actually an incredible and harmless display of nature at work.
What Is the Tarantula Migration?
The tarantula migration is not a migration in the traditional sense, where animals move long distances for survival or food. Instead, it’s a seasonal event where male tarantulas—most commonly the Aphonopelma hentzi species—emerge from their burrows in search of mates. These bachelors are driven by one purpose: finding love before the end of their short adult lives. Think of it like nature’s speed dating, but with way more legs and a lot less talking.
Starting in late August and continuing through October, the males set out at dusk, bravely trekking across fields, roads, and even hiking trails in their quest for romance. While this phenomenon occurs throughout the southwestern U.S., Southwest Colorado—particularly around La Plata and Montezuma Counties—offers a prime viewing opportunity for those wanting to witness this spidery love parade.
Why Do Tarantulas Migrate?
The male tarantulas, typically between 7 and 10 years old, have spent their lives underground, feeding and molting in their solitary burrows. But after years of being single, they’ve had enough and emerge during the fall to search for that special someone—because even spiders can’t resist the call of love. Mating is their one and only mission now, and after they find a mate, they’ve basically checked off their entire bucket list.
Females, on the other hand, are much more grounded (literally and figuratively). They prefer to hang out in their burrows, waiting for Mr. Right Now to wander by. With a lifespan of up to 20 years, they take their time, knowing the males will come knocking. Unfortunately for the guys, some of these spider dates don’t always end well—cannibalism is a real possibility. Talk about a high-stakes romance!
Where to See the Migration
In Southwest Colorado, several areas are well known for good tarantula spotting. The flat grasslands between Cortez and Durango, particularly around Highway 160, are a great place to witness the migration. It’s not uncommon to see these large, slow-moving romantics crossing roads or meandering through open spaces, likely dreaming of the perfect spider wedding.
For those who wish to experience the tarantula migration, it’s best to go out just before sunset, when the males become more active. Be sure to bring a flashlight if you plan to stay after dark, as the tarantulas tend to be most active at dusk and into the early evening hours.
Are Tarantulas Dangerous?
Despite their intimidating size and appearance, tarantulas are generally not dangerous to humans. Sure, they look like they could headline a horror movie, but they’re just hopeless romantics in search of a mate. While they can bite if threatened, their venom is mild and typically not harmful beyond a bee sting in terms of pain or reaction. They’re much more interested in finding love than engaging with humans, so if you come across one, it’s best to observe from a respectful distance and let them continue their search for spider soulmates.
Tarantulas also play an important role in the ecosystem, keeping populations of insects and small invertebrates in check. Their presence is a reminder of the often-overlooked importance of spiders in maintaining balance in nature—whether they’re swiping right on their tarantula Tinder or not.
How to Enjoy the Tarantula Migration Safely
If you plan to observe the tarantula migration, there are a few things to keep in mind to ensure both your safety and the well-being of these eight-legged Casanovas:
Watch from a distance: Tarantulas are delicate creatures. Avoid picking them up or disturbing them on their journey for love.
Drive carefully: If you’re on the road, be mindful that tarantulas are slow-moving, and it’s easy to accidentally run them over. Drive cautiously in known migration areas, especially during the evening.
Respect their habitat: Stick to trails and paths, and avoid trampling through their natural habitats. Many of these areas are fragile ecosystems.
Ready for Love
The tarantula migration in Southwest Colorado is a remarkable event that showcases the beauty and complexity of nature—and the romantic desperation of male tarantulas! For a few short weeks each fall, the region’s rugged landscape comes alive with these gentle giants, each hoping to find love before time runs out. So, whether you’re a spider enthusiast or simply curious about the natural world, the tarantula migration is a spectacle worth seeing—if you’re brave enough to witness nature’s ultimate matchmaking event.
Stopping at the farm store when baby chicks are in season means I’ll be unable to resist temptation. I brought home four new baby chickens this weekend. But, I already had a home for them. Here, I’ll show you where I keep baby chicks until they are big enough to live in the main coop. Hopefully, you’ll get some ideas to build your own chicken brooder.
Where I Raise Baby Chicks
Rabbit Hutch
Yes, we are talking about baby chickens. So why am I bringing up rabbit hutches? Well, my chicks go into a rabbit hutch to grow up. I used to do what many of you may do; raise the babies in a bucket in my bathtub. That got smelly fast! So, I came up with an alternative solution that has worked well for my last three groups of chicks.
Now, I set a rabbit hutch on the floor of my chicken coop. This allows the babies to get to know the big girls and roosters in a safe space. The weave of the bars is small enough that the babies can’t get through the holes and the hens can’t get into the chicks’ space. Believe it or not, hens will kill baby chicks so it is important to keep them separated.
Another useful thing about a rabbit hutch is that the kit I bought comes with a feeder; one less thing to pick out! The rabbit feeders do have a mesh bottom, which allows chick crumbles to fall out. This is not good! So I took a piece of cardboard, cut it to size, and lined the bottom of the feeder first. This does the trick to keep the baby chicken food inside the rabbit feeder.
You can get the same hutch I have from Amazon. I did not fully assemble mine, leaving the legs and tray off the bottom. But if you have some extra time, assembling the hutch completely would work just as well.
The links on this page are Amazon Affiliate Links.
Home
Rabbit Hutch Complete Kit – Easy to Assemble Housing, Feeder, & Water Bottle Kit
The floor of a rabbit hutch is not safe for delicate baby chick legs, though. To keep them from hurting themselves, I lay out excelsior pads as flooring. These pads come in squares are made of fine wood strands that have been woven together to create a soft, squishy mat. The babies don’t try to eat the flooring like they do with hay, so it lasts longer. They are also much less messy than wood shavings. The excelsior pads are easy to pick up and throw away once they’re too dirty to stay. (I also line my hens’ nesting boxes with excelsior pads. They’re pretty handy!)
Floor
Nest Box Pads for Chicken Nesting Boxes – 13 x 13 Pads Made in USA from Sustainably Sourced Aspen Excelsior
To keep the babies alive, it is very, very important to get them a heat source. If hatched naturally, a mama chicken would still be sitting on chicks well after they are hatched. Baby chickens cannot produce enough body heat to stay alive on their own. Many people get their chicks a heat lamp, but this poses a huge fire risk. I love using brooder plates instead. These little plastic trays warm up just enough to keep the babies comfy, but I’ve never had any worries that they will catch on fire while I am sleeping. Plus, the chicks can go under the plate when they are cold and leave if they get hot. It makes me feel better that they’re not trapped in a bucket under a hot lamp.
There are tons of choices for water containers for little chicklets. I have a simple hanging poultry waterer for my chicks like the one shown below. I hang it on the roof of the rabbit hutch with a carabiner clip and it seems to work well for me.
When you pick up those baby chicks, you’ll need to grab a bag of “Chick Starter” crumbles for them to eat. You will have about a million brands and types to choose among. But, from what I have seen, the brands offer roughly the same product with two main choices: medicated and unmedicated. What type you choose will be up to you. Medicated feed helps prevent bad bacteria from growing in a baby chick’s digestive system. But this also may prevent good bacteria from growing there, as well. I think your personal preference should win out on this choice.
Food
Non-Medicated Starter Crumble Feed for Chicks & Ducklings
I am so glad I already had my chick brooder set up when I made my impulse purchase. If you haven’t, I hope this helps you get started raising your new chicks up to be the best hens ever!
Essential Steps to Protect Your Flock in Bear Country
Living in bear country means being the guardian of your chicken coop in a land where bears might mistake it for an all-you-can-eat buffet. Bear-proofing your coop isn’t just about protecting your chickens; it’s also about ensuring that our furry neighbors don’t end up enjoying an unintended feast.
Understanding Bear Behavior
First things first, let’s delve into the bear psyche. Bears are not food critics; they’re opportunists. They have an uncanny ability to sniff out a chicken dinner and might consider your coop a Michelin-starred establishment if given the chance.
Keep Temptations Out of Reach
Alright, now it’s time to clean up the yard. Remove any chicken delicacies that might entice bears. Store feed securely in bear-proof containers, because your chickens aren’t the only critters that enjoy corn and grains. A hungry bear will happily snack on your chicken feed, then search for some protein to go with his side dish. It’s best not to rely on “bear-proof” containers; a clever bear can pop these open with the flick of one claw. Instead, keeping feed in a sturdy shed or garage is a good way to keep it out of reach.
A bear’s claw can easily pierce the top of a “bear-proof” feed bucket, allowing it to unscrew the lid and feast.
Fortify the Fortress
Your coop should resemble Fort Knox, but with more clucking. Construct it with materials sturdy enough to withstand a bear’s curiosity. Remember, bears are like the Houdinis of the animal kingdom; they’ll try every trick in the book to crack into your coop.
When it comes to locks, bear-resistant is the name of the game. Bears have a knack for figuring out puzzles, so opt for locks and latches that would give even Sherlock Holmes a run for his money.
Regularly inspect your coop to ensure it remains a fortress against bear infiltration. Remember, bears have a lot of time on their paws and are persistent problem-solvers.
Your First Line of Defense: Fencing
Install fencing that even the most ambitious bear would think twice about crossing. Think electric fencing or a fence so formidable it could double as a set for a medieval castle. Bears might be strong, but they’re not fans of unpleasant surprises.
If you find a particularly stubborn bear is undeterred by a little zap, here is a tip I learned from a retired Forest Service Wildlife Officer. He told me to try wrapping a strip of raw bacon around the electric fence; when the bear tries to grab a snack, it will get a zap that should deter it from coming back. Just make sure to turn off the electricity before you wrap the bacon, and turn it back on when you’re done.
Lights, Alarms, and Other Bear-Be-Gone Gadgets
Bright lights and sudden loud noises: the bear’s version of an unexpected pop quiz. Set up motion-activated deterrents that make bears feel like they stumbled into a surprise party they weren’t invited to.
To create a bear-unfriendly surprise party, motion-activated deterrents could mimic a carnival gone haywire in the woods. Picture strobe lights flashing vividly, casting disorienting shadows amidst the trees. Accompanying these dazzling lights, an array of loud, dissonant noises erupts—a cacophony of honks, bells, and perhaps even snippets of human chatter or music, jolting the bears out of their peaceful reverie. These deterrents, strategically placed and activated by motion sensors, would make the bears feel like they stumbled upon a chaotic celebration they definitely weren’t invited to.
From the bear’s perspective, these unusual sights and sounds disrupt their usual routine, creating an environment that feels unfamiliar, unpredictable, and thoroughly unwelcoming. It’s the forest equivalent of walking into a surprise party where you’d much rather have stayed home—a sensory overload that normally encourages a swift retreat back to the peace and quiet of the untouched woods.
Man’s Best Friend: The Canine Guardians
When it comes to bear deterrence, our four-legged friends often steal the show. A well-trained dog can be an invaluable asset in keeping bears at bay. Bears are wary of dogs and are less likely to approach an area where they sense the presence of these vigilant guardians. Consider introducing a dog to your coop-defense team – a furry, barking sentry that doubles as a loyal companion.
However, training is key; not every dog is automatically a bear-chasing expert. Choose breeds known for their protective instincts and train them to safely deter, not directly engage, these formidable visitors. A dog’s bark might just be the final piece of the puzzle in creating a bear-proof fortress for your chickens. Be sure to socialize your pups well with their new chicken friends, or you will have an entirely different predator problem on your hands.
Community Bear Watch
Spread the word! Let your neighbors in on the secrets of bear-proofing. Sharing tips might just prevent your neighborhood from turning into a bear picnic area.
If you find the bear in your neighborhood is not deterred by these tricks, call your local animal control or wildlife specialist. They’ll have more tips and might even want to relocate very stubborn or aggressive bears.
How Country Living Wove Its Way into My Practical Knitting Adventures
Life in the countryside isn’t just about picturesque landscapes; it’s also about how my knitting needles have adapted to thrive in the great outdoors. Let’s unravel the influence that knitting in the sticks (yes, pun intended 😉) has had on my own crafting adventures.
Spinning a Yarn: Just Me, the Mountains, and the Trees
Let me tell you the tale of how my knitting has evolved since I moved back to my small, Colorado hometown. With less than 2000 people in town and lots of State and National Forest to wander around, I meet more deer and turkeys than I do people. And, thank goodness for the space! Nature and country-living have, without a doubt, inspired my knits.
Yarn Adventures: Nature’s Color Palette
Living in the boonies means my yarn choices are a bit like picking berries – I go for the richest hues, found right outside my door. Whether it’s the muddy browns after a rainy day, the vibrant greens dancing in the trees, or the blue hues of the Rocky Mountain sky, my yarn basket mimics the countryside’s color spectrum.
Weather-Proof Knits: Seasons Got Style
Surviving the rural Colorado climate means knitting for all seasons. When winter hits, I’m like a knitting bear in hibernation, creating thick, cozy accessories that could keep a snowman toasty. Come spring, my knitting switches to “practical mode” with functional home goods, like hand towels and washcloths.
Rural living also means limited choices. When the nearest mall is two hours away, fashion trends tend to fall behind. (We were still wearing those low-rise hip-hugging jeans well into the 2010s 🤫). That’s why I stick with classic, minimalist knitting designs that can survive changes in trends.
Farmyard Fiber Finds: Local Yarn Heroes
Let’s talk sheepish secrets! Living near farms means I’ve got access to some real woolly wonders. I snag local sheep’s fleece and alpaca wool fibers whenever I can. Craft fairs, art shows, and small-town festivals are filled with hidden fuzzy-gems. And trust me, these local fibers know how to keep you warm!
Practical Patterns: Hardworking Hobbies
I’ve mastered rural traditions in knitting that are as practical as a good ol’ farmer’s handshake. Classic stitches and Fair Isle designs – they aren’t just pretty; they’re like the Swiss Army knives of knitting, ready for anything mountain life throws my way.
Here in my forest, a countryside symphony of chirping birds calm and entertain. As I weave together a new knitting project, songbirds whistle and hawks screech. Woodpeckers drum, while ravens provide a throaty chortle. Little Steller’s Jays mimic the other’s songs. The opus echoes down my little canyon when they awake. It’s the best sound therapy I can think of: simply soaking in the tranquility of the piñon forest.
Knitting in the Sticks
Living in the sticks has added a practical twist to my knitting endeavors. From yarn hues inspired by nature’s whimsy to patterns that could handle a rural rodeo, my knitting journey is a playful dance with the practical, backwoods charm. So, here’s to needles clicking, sheep frolicking, and country living inspiring every purl and knit in my stash!
Where Knitting Meets Critters and Gardens Host Gossip Sessions
So, picture this: Southwest Colorado, where my knitting needles and gardening trowels mingle with the locals – the wildlife! From my crafting corner, I’ve got a front-row seat to nature’s sitcom, and let me tell you, it’s both hilarious and awe inspiring.
Hummingbird High-Speed Chase
Ever tried knitting while hummingbirds zip around? It’s like a NASCAR race with wings! These speedsters inspire me to pick vibrant yarn colors, because, let’s face it, life’s too short for dull colors when hummingbirds are around.
Squirrel Shenanigans and Cheeky Chipmunks
Gardening with squirrels and chipmunks around is a bit like playing hide-and-seek. They eye my veggies, I try to protect ’em. It’s a constant game of “Who’s got the best tricks?” Their antics remind me to knit resilient stitches, just in case they decide to get crafty with my knitting basket.
Deer Drama Queen
As twilight sets in, the deer emerge, looking all majestic until they nibble on my carefully tended plants! They’re the garden divas, strutting in for a snack. But hey, their elegance sometimes sneaks into my knitting patterns – subtle and graceful, just like those sneaky but graceful nibblers.
Butterfly Makeovers
From caterpillar chaos to butterfly beauty, the garden’s got its own makeover show! It’s like witnessing a craft project in fast-forward. Their transformations nudge me to experiment with new knitting patterns – after all, change is a beautiful thing, right?
Songbird Karaoke Nights
These songbirds make my gardening soundtrack! It’s a full-on karaoke session out there. Their tunes fuel my knitting rhythm. Who knew a knitting session could double as an open mic night for nature’s finest crooners? And what’s extra-exciting in my neck of the woods is to hear the Steller’s Jays imitate the local hawks. Sometimes I hear a hawk scream and look up to see this fellow. The little stinker does it to clear the garden of other birds that might be competing for food. They hear a hawk and flee, while the Jay feasts happily, knowing the birds of prey are not on the attack.
Wild Turkey Troublemakers
Now, speaking of wild birds, I often run into the most beautiful flock of wild turkeys while knitting and gardening outside. They are adorable and so fun to watch. But they do love a good garden snack, just like anyone else. Do I share? Usually. They’re too fun to run off.
Bumbling Bees
Lets not forget the most important of the garden creatures to visit while I’m clicking my knitting needles. Both honey and bumble bees are both vital to the garden’s survival and to my knitting bliss. Listen to the sweet soft buzzing while you weave together your newest knitting project. Your mind will thank you for the tranquility.
Don’t Forget to Look Up
Those knitting stitches do keep your eyes focused. But don’t forget to take a break and look up every now and then. Otherwise you might miss spotting some really amazing wildlife.
In Southwest Colorado, my knitting and gardening adventures unfold amidst the quirkiest cast of characters – the local wildlife! Their shenanigans and charm sneak into my crafting choices, adding a touch of nature’s comedy to my cozy craft haven.
Knit along with me and be sure you follow me on Instagram: that’s where I share my best nature and knitting photos.
