Category: Homestead

A Guide to Transitioning Chicken Pullets from the Brooder

Raising baby chicks has been one of the most rewarding parts of homesteading for me, but figuring out the right time to move those growing little ones outside from their cozy brooder to the big world of the chicken coop can be nerve-wracking. Over the years, I’ve learned (sometimes the hard way) that the timing is key. You want your pullets (young hens) to be comfortable, safe, and well-prepared for the elements and their new life outside.

Here’s what I’ve found to be the best approach when deciding when and how to transition your pullets from their warm indoor space to the great outdoors.

When Are Pullets Ready to Move Outside?

Knowing when your pullets are ready to move outside depends on a few things: their age, feathering, outdoor temperatures, and the safety of your coop setup. Let me walk you through what I’ve learned from my own experience.

Age and Feather Development

Chicks are usually ready to move outside at around 6 to 8 weeks old, but what really matters is their feather development. I remember being so eager to move my first batch of chicks outside that I almost jumped the gun. But they weren’t fully feathered yet, and it would have been too cold for them to handle. Lesson learned! Fully feathered means they’ve grown their adult feathers and can better regulate their body temperature.

Look for that full set of feathers before considering the move. If you see baby down (like in the picture below), they’re not ready yet.

Outdoor Temperature

Even with all their feathers, you want to be sure the nighttime temperatures are warm enough. I usually wait until the nights are consistently above 60°F (15°C). I once tried moving pullets out when it was still dipping into the low 50s at night, thinking they’d be fine since they had feathers. But I ended up sneaking out to the coop in the middle of the night to bring them back inside because they were huddling and cold!

I personally don’t use heat lamps because they can be dangerous—especially in wooden coops. Instead, I recommend using a brooder plate, heating plate, or even heated roosting posts to provide gentle, safe warmth for your pullets if needed.

Coop Setup and Safety

Before moving chicks outside, make sure your coop is ready to welcome them. I can’t stress this enough: your coop needs to be predator-proof. I lost a few pullets early on because I didn’t properly secure the coop. Now, I use hardware cloth instead of chicken wire to close up any gaps where predators like raccoons might try to get in. It’s also worth double-checking your coop’s ventilation and making sure you’ve got good bedding in place.

If your coop has a run, make sure it’s well-covered and secure. Pullets are small and can easily be preyed on by hawks or other predators. Be sure the run is escape proof. It’s for their safety, not to keep them locked up. These little ones are sneaky and can get out through much smaller openings than the bigger hens. When they get loose, it can be an adventure trying to get them back into the pen.

Flock Integration

If you already have an established flock, introducing your pullets can be tricky. I once made the mistake of tossing my new pullets into the coop without a proper introduction, and let’s just say, it didn’t go well. Older hens can be bullies as they assert the pecking order.

The typical approach is to section off part of the run or use a chicken wire divider so the older hens can see the pullets without being able to peck at them. After about a week, they’ll be more familiar with each other, and the integration should go smoother.

Or, you can choose to let your chicks grow into pullets alongside the rest of your birds. But, never just toss new chicks in without protection; set up a rabbit hutch inside your main coop. The babies will be able to grow up safely, since the bigger chickens can’t get to them. Once they are big enough to be set free, they will already have been accepted as part of the main flock’s daily life. Read more about how I set up a rabbit hutch to work as a chick brooder here.

Quick Steps to Transition Pullets Outside

So let’s sum up. Here are the four key steps I’ve taken to successfully move my chicks outside in the past:

1. Gradually Reduce Brooder Heat

About a week before I plan to move the chicks outside, I start reducing the heat in their brooder. If you’ve been using a brooder plate, gradually lower it to help them adjust to cooler nights. This helps them acclimate to the outdoor conditions. I didn’t do this with my first flock, and they struggled a bit with the cold at first.

2. Introduce the Coop During the Day

I always like to start by letting the pullets explore the outdoor coop during the day. It gives them a chance to get used to the space without the stress of a cold night. After a few days, they’re usually more confident and familiar with their new home, making the nighttime transition easier.

3. Move Them Out at Night

After a few days of daytime exploring, I move them to the coop overnight. The first night, I won’t lie—I’m always a bit anxious! I check on them (probably too much), but they generally settle in just fine.

4. Monitor Their Behavior

For the first few nights, I keep a close eye on them. If they seem huddled together for warmth, I’ll make sure their brooder plate or heated roosting post is working well. But usually, by the time they’re fully feathered and it’s warm enough, they do just fine.

What to Watch For After Moving Them Outside

Once your pullets are in the coop, watch for signs that they’re adjusting well. Here are a few things to look out for:

Huddling together at night: This can be a sign that they’re cold. Make sure they have enough bedding, and consider using a brooder plate or heated roosting post if needed.

Pecking and aggression: It’s normal for the older hens to peck a bit as they establish the pecking order, but if it turns into constant bullying, you may need to separate them temporarily.

Feather loss or stress: Keep an eye on their feathers and energy levels. If they seem overly stressed, it might be worth giving them a bit more time in their separate area before full integration.

What to Do If a Pullet Gets Injured when Joining the Flock

Unfortunately, accidents can happen during the transition, whether it’s due to pecking from older hens or just rough play among the pullets. Separate an injured chicken if the others are hurting her.

Clean then cover her wounds before exposing her to the other chickens again, or they will peck at the open sores. I always keep Rooster Booster Pick No More on hand for these situations. This product is a lifesaver when it comes to protecting an injured pullet’s wounds from further pecking by the flock. The bitter taste discourages other chickens from pecking at the injury, which helps prevent infection and allows the pullet to heal.

Essentials for the Transition

From my own experience, having the right supplies can make the transition easier for both you and your pullets. You pick up these supplies at your local farm store, or stock up before there is a problem by using my Amazon Affiliate links. Here’s what I recommend having ready:

Chicken First Aid Kit

Assemble an emergency first aid kit for your chickens. Make sure to include Vetericyn Plus Poultry Care Spray – it’s sort of like a spray-on Neosporin for chickens. Also pick up Rooster Booster Pick No More. After you clean the wound, you will use Pick No More to cover it like a liquid Band-aid. This product helps prevent further pecking at open sores and keeps the injured pullet safe while they heal. I can’t take credit for this tip, my dear friend at Stealin’ Blue Minis told me about this magical chicken medicine. And she was right! Look, the injured chicken shown above grew into a healthy member of the flock:

Heating for Chickens and Pullets

If the nights are still chilly, a brooder plate, heat mat, or heated roosting post is a safer alternative to heat lamps. I never use heat lamps because of the fire risk, so having one of these options helps keep my pullets warm without the danger.

Final Thoughts

Moving pullets outside is a big step, and it can feel a little nerve-wracking the first time. But if you take the time to ensure they’re ready—fully feathered, temperatures are warm enough, and your coop is secure—it will go smoothly. With the right supplies and a gradual transition, your pullets will thrive in their new outdoor space. And don’t forget, if you need to stock up on essentials for your coop, check out my Amazon Affiliate recommendations page to get everything you need for a safe, successful move!

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There are downsides to free-ranging hens. Obviously, predators can be a huge risk to your chickens when they are allowed to wander outside of an enclosure. But I did not guess that the hens would stop laying in the coop and start new nests for their eggs in secret forest spaces.

Letting Chickens Free Range with Rooster Protection

I used to keep my hens in the shelter to protect them from predators like hawks and ravens. But with the addition of two large roosters (twin Jersey Giants named Colonel Sanders and Popeye), I felt the hens were safe enough to free range. The roosters have been great at keeping an eye on the flock, but clearly, they have not been concerned with keeping the eggs in the coop.

The Missing Egg Mystery

For the past two weeks, not a single egg has been laid in the coop. I worried there was something wrong with the chickens’ feed, so I started supplementing with healthy table scraps. Still no eggs.

Finally I started following a pair of hens through the woods to try to find out what they were up to. I discovered that they had created a maze of hidden nests under trees and brush. I don’t think these were just dust baths; the hens had been laying here.

My Hens Stopped Laying in the Coop

So the mystery is solved; my hens decided the forest was a better place to lay eggs than the swanky nest boxes in their safe coop. After days of searching for their hidden nests amongst the trees, I’m pretty sure the local wildlife has been getting a buffet of fresh eggs.

I would love to live and let live, but I feed the chickens to get eggs in return. This is supposed to be a two-way deal. It is time for a brief time-out.

Some Time in the Enclosure to Reset

Don’t get me wrong, this isn’t a punishment for the chickens. Their coop is a large shed, and their enclosure is roomy enough for all the chicken-y activities they can dream up. They’re safer from predators, so Popeye and Colonel Sanders can relax a bit. Plus, they’re getting extra treats to encourage egg laying. But, for now, they need to stay in their run until they re-learn to lay eggs in their cozy inside nests.

So, Here is the Egg-citing Plan

(Spoiler alert!) I got an egg! Here’s what I have done to encourage these little feathered dinosaurs to lay eggs in the coop not the woods:

Keeping Them in the Coop and Run

First, I made sure to shut the enclosure after all the chickens had gone to bed for the night. They may have forgotten how to lay in the coop, but they are still certain to sleep there. This saves me the hasle of chasing wild chickens, that can fly, through a wooded area; I would never catch them this way.

Now that they’re safe and secure, I’m keeping the hens in the coop and run for now. It is giving them a chance to refocus on using their nest boxes. I hope this temporary shift helps them reestablish their laying routine permanently.

Freshening Up the Nest Boxes

I gave their nest boxes a little makeover by adding fresh bedding. In my hens’ boxes, I use excelsior nest pads (Amazon affiliate link), which makes clean-up much faster. I tossed in some calming chamomile and lavender from my garden, as well. The herbs help make the nest boxes feel like a cozy, welcoming spot to lay eggs.

Collecting Eggs More Regularly

To be sure I get as many eggs as possible, I am checking the coop much more often. Usually, I would go out for eggs once a day. But, this time, I want to ensure the eggs end up where they should. One hen, for example, likes to lay on the cold bare floor. This can encourage snakes and packrats to steal eggs. We are working on laying up in the fluffy nest, instead.

Monitoring the Hens’ Habits

I’m closely watching their behavior, especially during the times when they’re most likely to lay. I have several hens who are early layers; they give me eggs for breakfast. The rest of the hens lay through out the late morning and early afternoon. I am closely watching these ladies, because they were the first group to wander.

It worked!

I am now in possession of one, single egg! It is a start. Hopefully the girls will all jump on board and start laying where they ought to!

Once I see the hens laying in the coop again regularly, I’ll gradually let them free-range. Since winter is coming on, though, the flock just might choose their warm enclosure until spring. Either way, hooray for fresh eggs straight from my yard!

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